How to plant and grow an apple tree?

Apples like almost all people.But getting their own harvest is anyway more enjoyable than buying a product of unknown quality in the store. It is only necessary to know exactly the basic techniques and points to ensure that errors in this matter are guaranteed.

An apple tree is a tree or shrub from the Rosaceae family, abundantly growing in temperate latitudes and in subtropics. Plant height can reach 10 m. At the same time, the apple tree is covered with dark gray bark. Its foliage is green, their length reaches 0.1 m, the leaf's geometry is close to an oblong egg. Flowers of apple trees have a distinct aroma.

Judging by the description, they are characterized by a pink, white or slightly red tonality. Flowers are collected in umbrella inflorescences, the diameter of each flower can reach 40 mm. The apple tree is blooming in the last month of spring; under favorable conditions, the tree can even be completely covered with flowers. The size, tone and geometry of the fruit is largely determined by the variety and type. It is customary to separate the fruit and decorative type of apple trees.

Their height allows you to enter the classification for:

• strongly developed;
• weakly growing;
• partially dwarf;
• miniature group.

Great variety of external configurations of the crown. It is spreading and weeping, compressed and in the form of a column. The latter type attracts the attention of farmers for its unusualness: there is a main trunk and branches pulling up. The columnar apple tree absorbs a minimum of space in the garden, and its greatest growth is limited to 3 m. But the popularity of such a culture is limited by its susceptibility to freezing: frost-beaten plants, even when they survive, cannot give fruit.

The so-called home apple tree is the collective name of varieties and hybrids grown in gardens. The growing season covers her April-November. The berry, also known as the Siberian apple tree, forms a slowly growing tree, 5-10 m tall. It is characterized by a rounded crown and a large foliage density. The plant is beautifully flowering, people like it and receiving fruits.

Apples on the Siberian varieties of apples do not exceed 10 cm in diameter, are painted in yellow or red tone. Fruits differ in a round form, they grow on the extended fruit stems. Resistance to frost is very high, which allows you to grow a plant in harsh conditions and use it as a stock in the northern regions of the country. But the apple tree, aka Chinese, is distinguished not only by a round, but also by a very large crown.

White or slightly pink flowers begin to form on it in spring, the diameter of which sometimes reaches 30 mm.

The attractiveness of the plant is due to its resistance to:

• winter conditions;
• dry periods;
• many diseases.

“Kitayka” suffers little from pruning. Apples on it do not exceed 3 cm, there are fruits with red and yellow peel. But the forest, she is a wild apple stands out with rapid growth (capable of rising to 15 m). Interestingly, sometimes shrubs are added to this group. On one plant there are either white or pink flowers, together they do not grow. The fruits of wild apple trees are sour, but one of the subspecies is the paradise apple tree, which is well suited for grafting on cultivated dwarf varieties.

Purple hybrid stands out for its charm and reddish leaves. Growth of a tree does not exceed 5 m. Decorative qualities are caused both flowers, and fruits. Resistance to winter is satisfactory for most regions of Russia.

Apple Nedzvetskogo will be of interest to gardeners who want to get a fast-growing and little susceptible to infections and aggression pests garden.

Acquaintance with the types of apple trees is not enough to make a competent decision. It is required to properly evaluate and what kind of variety is needed on a particular plot. More recently, the undisputed leader was "Idared". But even today, when there are both more delicious and more practical varieties of apple trees, many summer residents remain committed to it.The taste of the fruit is transitional from sour to sweet, there are apples weighing from 0.1 to 0.3 kg; A serious problem is the low resistance to winter.

By keeping quality and transportability, an excellent contender for a place in the garden will be an apple "Berkutovskoe". It is valued on industrial plantations, especially in the southern areas. Resistance to winter is average, but resistance to draining will delight farmers. The sweetness of the fruits and the average height of the tree itself are noted.

But the grade "Bolotovskoe" gives high, up to 10 m, trees, zoned in central Russia. The peculiarity of this variety can be considered unusual green flesh color. Although the taste is clearly felt sour notes, it is difficult to call it unpleasant, since the proportion of acids is small. You can save "Bolotovsky" apples until the end of January.

Of the new varieties, it is worth looking at the achievement of breeders of the 21st century, such as "Venyaminovsky"resistant to scab. This circumstance largely helps him to win more and more space.

"Imrus", or “Russian immunity”, is able to survive even the most evil frosts; it is distinguished by its average height and taste, sweet and sour.

You can list these or other varieties for hours, but among them there is a variety "Long", which many experts even consider the world leader in taste. In addition, this apple tree produces powerful harvests and is not too whimsical. Although the variety belongs to the group "Chinese", it was developed in the USA. The fruits ripen in early autumn and attract the attention of the strongest aroma. The tree hung with apples looks superb even against the background of the most decorative species.

Pollination requires the participation of insects. The apple tree is able to lure them itself, without the efforts of gardeners. But for this you need to plant the plants separately, so that the bees and other winged birds do not get lost. Especially since hiding such beauty for other plantings is just silly. Trees in height reach 4 m, while relatively small in width. A round wide crown with dark green shoots looks attractive from spring to autumn.

The bulk of the branches without bends directed upwards. When the season of ripening begins, it is difficult to notice the branches themselves under a layer of apples, held by short stalks. The sheet itself is easily confused with growing on a plum. Fruits are covered with smooth skin and not too large (average weight - 0.02 kg). There are both spherical apples, and "cones".

It should be noted to begin with that the winter planting of apples in Russia rarely brings good results. Much more often you can face freezing of plants. Most gardeners do not start work before mid-April. Planting in the spring, if everything is taken into account and done correctly, allows us to hope for a solid development of the plant by the next winter.

As for the summer landing, it is only acceptable, but it is better to avoid this practice. Risking gardeners are forced to water the seedlings abundantly in the heat, and at the same time it is extremely difficult to observe the line beyond which the roots rot. If, however, a decision is made to plant in the summer, it is necessary to select only specially designed varieties. Summer planting is sometimes recommended in Siberia to optimize winter preparations. But such a measure immediately imposes on gardeners the obligation to think everything through and take into account the course of physiological processes.

The optimal time for disembarking is in autumn, or rather, in September and the first part of October. That's when the bark of the apple trees is fully ready for the cold season.

To properly plant an apple tree, you need to dig holes where there is clay soil. The additive of improving substances - peat, humus or washed river sand - is made in these pits.The excavation is digging approximately 0.8 m deep, its diameter is from 1 m. At the base, the shells left from walnuts are laid out. But if you collect so many shells is quite problematic, then here it is much easier to find the required number of unnecessary cans.

These layers should not be mixed, but their goal is the same - to strengthen the pit.

Next, it is filled with soil and feed:

• potassium sulfate;
• wood ash;
• superphosphate.

The step-by-step guide in any specialized edition notes that the middle of the pit should be provided with a stake. After its introduction, a notch ½ in height is filled with earth. Only after that put seedlings. Plant trunks are supported on stakes installed in advance. It should be noted that doing this work alone is extremely difficult, therefore the involvement of a partner is fully justified.

In all instructions, it is noted that the best planting of apple trees occurs against the background of the natural "sleep" of the seedling. This allows you to exclude the beginning of active development of the vegetative system. In the Moscow region, it is customary to plant apple trees in the autumn months. But regardless of the specific moment, Moscow gardeners must take into account that groundwater, even if they are not too high by local standards, is still 1.5 m below the surface. Possible negative consequences are stopped by pre-compaction of the lower layers by filling the soil.

In most parts of Russia, the purchase of seedlings at fairs and exhibition venues is irrational. Most of the seeds there are brought from the southern regions, when winter comes they quickly freeze. It is much more practical to go to the nursery of your area.

Getting acquainted with the advice of experienced gardeners, it is worth noting such a moment: where the land is poor (represented by a mixture of sand and rubble, composed of loams or peat), you need to add an increased amount of fertilizer. Regardless of the type of soil, a very important point is the careful selection of the distance between individual trees. It necessarily adapts to the climatic conditions of a particular place, to the size of the garden and the seedlings themselves. Planting bush dwarf apple trees is made with a gap from one row to another at 4.3 m with distances between individual plants of 2.7 m. This scheme is used in small gardens, and in larger areas use row planting on trellis with breaks of 4.5 2.1 m respectively.

Just bush trees are planted according to how many rows are planned. When one rank is formed, at least 1 m of free space must remain between the apple trees, and the rows divide exactly 3 m of empty land. Another option involves planting dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees in the form of "lines" after 2.5 m, while the gaps are filled with other cultures. The easiest is for gardeners who have developed a clear landing plan in advance. But even in this case, the maximum allowable approach between the apple trees is 1 m.

Sometimes, landing along a staggered pattern is practiced, in which two pieces of a garden parallel to each row are slightly shifted. This solution allows you to fully utilize the entire available territory. According to professionals, dwarf plants with this method of planting between dwarf apple trees within one row should remain 1.5 m. For semi-dwarf varieties, this distance increases to 3-3.75 m, and for large plants - to 5 m. recommended for palmetnye rows created on poles, while the spacing is 4 m, and the distance between individual trees - 2 m.

If it is known in advance that it will be extremely difficult to organize garden care, or it will be completely absent for a long time, the chess construction is excluded.It will lead to the accelerated transformation of a pretty site into an ugly chaotic forest.

Single-row system (chain) is practiced:

• when forming avenues of fruit trees;
• when creating fruit walls near high fences or natural obstacles;
• in a small area;
• for delimiting the cottage space into separate segments.

The closed root complex allows plants to be planted in any vegetation phase, but for apple trees that were under a roof or a canopy, immediate planting is destructive. At least 3-4 days after unloading the car, they should be left where the sun's rays will touch the foliage for several hours a day. A common mistake is the planting of seedlings, previously living at a strictly positive air temperature, in the garden, which is still subject to jerks of night and day temperatures. At the initial stage, it is recommended to choose for landing such moments when the sky is shrouded in clouds or when the sun is already low over the horizon, and the shadows are lengthened. And even in this case it is worth shading the landing.

When the weather is hot, seedlings with an open or closed root system are equally affected. If the heat came suddenly, when the apple tree is already planted, removing it back into the container is meaningless. It is more correct to spend a few minutes in the early as well as in the late hours of the day spraying water. The hole must be kept constantly wet.

Usually, a sapling planted in one way or another develops into a full-fledged tree, which pleases the farmers all the time and showered them with fruits. But sometimes for some reason, the apple trees break open. That the winds cleared, what a carelessness occurred, and sometimes it happens with plants whose resource is far from exhausted. You can save the situation if you re-grow an apple tree from a branch.

If it is known in advance that the selected plants are distinguished by active growth, it is worthwhile to arrange them every 6 m. Refuse from rows when they are able to block the insolation of the whole area or most of it. In addition to the distance between the apple trees themselves, it is necessary to take into account the optimal breaks to other plants. Otherwise, harm is done to all interacting cultures.

Recommended distances (in meters):

• pear planted on a poorly growing stock - 4-5;
• pear growing intensively - 9;
• Large cherry tree - 6;
• bush cherry - 3,5;
• plum with compacted planting from a dwarf or column of apple trees - 3.5 (for all other types of apple trees - 4.5);
• large drainage - 6-8;
• currant - 1.25-3 m (depending on the growth of the apple tree);
• conifers - 8-12 m (biological species does not matter).

It so happens that the apple tree is found in the same garden with birches. For ordinary plant species, the gap is 4-5 m, but for seed it is doubled. It is allowed to create an apple orchard, in which there are also potatoes and other vegetables, the distance for them is 100-150 cm. When they try to decorate the territory of the site with lilacs, this is always commendable. But for dwarf apple trees, 4 m must be removed, and for large trees, especially if the bush itself is also large, the distance is increased to 6 m.

In a number of gardens you have to plant an apple tree along with raspberries. With the usual low growth of these crops, the gap is 2-2.5 m, for the remontant variety of shrubs, tall trees need to be 400 cm away. There is no information about the distance to the barberry in the special literature, because this is the primary enemy of the apple tree, therefore, it’s necessary to completely eliminate neighborhood. When organizing a full-fledged rose garden, a gap is made in 5-7 m. And when you only need to set 1-2 bushes to decorate the place, you can reduce the distance to 4 m.

But in the garden there are both various plants and "inanimate" details. When planting apple trees should take into account the gaps before them.

In this case, it is necessary to consider such moments as:

• the threat of the collapse of the walls, fences roots;
• interference with the repair of pipelines, massive structures;
• difficulties in extinguishing fires, elimination of other emergency situations;
• objective interests of the owners of the neighboring land.

So, if you plant tall trees on the plot, then at least 4 m from the fence. But for dwarfs, the distance drops to 1 m. In order for the dwelling to be always cozy and safe and the roots do not cling to the foundation, weakening it, low apple trees are required to move 4 m away, high ones - to all 8 m. But on any city or country the plot is not only the main house, but also a small one. The minimum distance in this case is 2 m, and for all containers that are deprived of tightness, from 4 to 6 m.

In order to care for the apple tree and other plantings, tools and other devices are required, which are folded in the barn, a utility workshop. And the safety of such structures is guaranteed at intervals of 1 m for dwarf rocks in the absence of a foundation and 3 m for any plants, if the base is organized. A rough mistake gardeners will admit if they decide that this is where all the details of planting end. Strictly observing the prescribed plants, it is important to pay more attention to the peculiarities of cultivation of apple trees with a closed root system.

There is nothing supernatural in a closed root complex: if the plant grows in a container or a plastic reservoir from the first hour of life, it already belongs to this group.

But a lot depends on what kind of variety lives in a particular place. The physiology of apple trees is bizarre, agricultural technology can change the course of life processes in them only in some cases. Cuttings from branches emit only shallow germinating roots. Therefore, they will have to be planted strictly there, where other apple trees cannot reach. And we must also remember that the growth of roots near the surface increases the risk of exposure to frost and dry summer.

Another point worth mentioning in connection with the planting of apple trees is how to transplant them. This manipulation is necessary in various cases. For example, when urgently it is required to make space in the framework of crop rotation, and there are no other possibilities to do this. Or when a tree is squeezed, it needs more space like air. Responsible gardeners in such an environment firmly forget about their convenience, the main thing for them is to reduce the stress of the transplanted apple.

Depth of landing at a new place is determined by the general rules. But the recommendations on the time of work are unambiguous best to take on it or in the spring, before the dissolution of the kidneys, or when the last leaves will fly around.

A spring transplant is definitely preferable to an autumn one if:

• soil is poor in nutrients;
• the cold came too early;
• There is no full confidence in the health of the plant.

Replanting an apple tree in the fall is a hurry: it must take root before the cold weather begins. The new site is chosen in the open light areas and be sure to ensure that interference is excluded. Distances are the same as always. But the landing notch should be 50% larger than the root complex. Correction of excess acidity is made by making hydrated lime.

To give apple orchard only a serene happiness and pleasure, it is not enough just to plant the apple trees properly. We will have to make a lot of effort in the future.And yet you can grow and make fruit any fruit tree "little blood", if you pay attention to the accumulated experience.

Standard moments in caring for apple trees will be:

• maintaining decent quality land;
• moisture boosting;
• cutting excess and diseased parts;
• prevention of frost destruction of branches;
• repelling rodent attacks;
• weed suppression;
• insect resistance;
• extinguishing infections.

To care for a young tree in the first year of cultivation begin, taking care of its early withdrawal from hibernation. In the summer, after flowering, it is time to feed, keeping the plants in good shape. Only in this way is it possible to retain the greatest number of ovaries. When the shortening of daylight is supplemented by lowering the average daily temperature, they begin to prepare for wintering. There are obvious differences when working on old apple plantings.

"Old age" is not counted by decrepitude; for the convenience of gardeners, this group includes all the plants that already thank the fruits for their previous efforts.

At this stage there are three main areas of work:

• maintaining the growth of young shoots;
• preservation of the regularity of the harvest;
• ensuring a decent level of fruits to be removed.

Apple trees are allowed to feed both organic and mineral fertilizers, microbiological compounds are recommended. When there is abundant fruiting, the natural strength of the trees is not enough to hold the load. Then timely and full preparation of props depends on farmers. In the event of a break in the branch, without which the normal proportion in the crown will remain, a cut “to the ring” is made with cleaning of the place, its careful alignment and painting. Thick branches, the absence of which is detrimental to the tree, put back and try to survive.

Given the constant danger of winter frosts, before the beginning of the cold planting season, it is supposed to sate with moisture. You should also have time at this time to heal any small wounds, and even more hollow. Another important aspect is precise trimming.

As for mechanical defects, the requirement is always the same - they must be eliminated as soon as possible. Having accidentally picked the bark on an apple tree (or when he saw that this was done by hares, for example), the responsible gardeners immediately rush to cook and apply garden pitch. This prescription is even more relevant when a serious deformation is noticed, reaching to the deeper layers of the tree. Imagine a similar degree of injury to yourself personally, and it will immediately become clear why speed is so important. Microorganisms are extremely tenacious, and once they are given a convenient entrance, it will be used immediately.

Supplement the immune system, as well as reduce the danger of most disorders helps the use of special feeds. But as with any kind of potent means, you need to behave carefully and carefully. Active medications are often prescribed after a meal in order to reduce their irritating effects. Similarly, nitrogen-containing mixtures must be diluted in a significant amount of water. Nothing bad will happen if you do the same with other fertilizers (but without deviating from the instructions).

If the land on the site contains a significant proportion of sand, nitrogen will be valuable. Black earth is another matter. The composition of this chemical element is already in excess. The more intensive the watering (within reasonable limits), the more fertilizer you can put. Helper there will be rainy weather. If it is firmly established, farmers can simply spread the desired composition around the trunk and not worry.

While they are spudding up other beds, doing some other work, resting after righteous labors or going back from the dacha, the rain flow itself will deliver the fertilizer to the target. But it is necessary to remember about the feeding of the plant outside the root. Such treatments are made only at those moments when the solar disk is not visible.

The very first time fertilizer is introduced in the spring, as soon as the early leaves are found. This is exactly the moment when you have to throw in nitrogen for the future harvest of apples. Top dressing is combined with digging and is done strictly along the perimeter of the crown. You can not ignore even the smallest area.

The recommended cost per apple tree is:

• 40-50 kg of humus;
• 0.5-0.6 kg of urea;
• or 0.03-0.04 kg of a combination of ammonium nitrate with a nitroammophotic.

When the time of the first leaves has passed and the tree bloomed, and this moment coincided with dry days, only liquid mixtures are used (with dilution of 10 liters of water):

• chicken litter - 1.5-2 kg;
• urea - 0.25-0.3 kg;
• dung manure - 5 kg;
• a mixture of 0.1 kg of superphosphate with 0.06 kg of potassium sulfate.

There is a third term, when the apple tree is eager to feed it. It comes when the flowers have fallen off and flown around, and the fruits are poured and ripen. There is already recommended green dressing. It is prepared by infusing green parts of field herbs in water for 20-25 days. In the summer, nitrogen is not enough, potassium and phosphorus should be suitable for it.

Although it is necessary to treat apples in a hot period more than once, it is worth keeping a pause from 10 to 15 days. Top dressing for the fruit tree should begin in mid-June. The only remedy is urea applied to the leaves. If the first summer month is wet, it is advisable to use instead of a sheet basal dressing. As the apple grows, the saturation of the solution increases annually.

In July, you need to spray the crown, be sure to take care of uniform concentration on all parts. Good nutrition should be provided using some amount of nitrogen. The gap between mineral and nitrogen mixtures is 7-14 days.

In the autumn period, trees should not be fed outside the roots, because this impairs preparation for winter weather. But feeding through the root with the help of ready-made mixtures in accordance with the instructions is very good. Dwarf apple trees are fed by 25-30% reduced amount of fertilizer.

A small amount of nitrogen leads to pallor and shredding foliage. Smaller it becomes and with a weak flow of boron, but there is already a characteristic twisting and yellowing sheets. If there is an acute lack of iron, the leaf becomes yellow, and soon it becomes colorless, it dies off, starting from the edge, new branches develop slowly.

Without calcium, the leaves become whitish and curl from top to bottom. Lack of magnesium creates a “short-term beauty”: the leaf will be yellow, red or even purple, and around the perimeter and on the veins will retain a green tone. Copper starvation is manifested in pallor and the appearance of brown areas on the foliage. Soon it becomes variegated, but this variegation is the harbinger of death.

The lack of phosphorus is recognized by a dull crown, in the color of which you can catch a bronze tint. An additional symptom is redness or the appearance of violet tones in the foliage. But the absence of zinc reveals itself by grinding the leaves, by their wrinkles. In addition to mineral components, competent watering is also of great importance for the full development of culture. It is carried out so that the soil is soaked with water 0.8 m deep.

Consistently spend three watering:

• against the background of flowering;
• in the first days of July (when the fruits are ripening actively);
• in October (to prepare the plant for frost).

If the weather is dry, the frequency of irrigation can be slightly increased, and with intensive precipitation reduce them. Water for irrigation should not be colder than 18 and hotter than 25 degrees. In the first and second year of life, apple trees are watered with 40-50 liters of water at a time. When fructification begins, it is required to use already on 70-100 l.The frequency of watering the first years of life of apple trees that grow rapidly in growth is 4-5 times per season.

Pouring water is required strictly under the neck of the root. This greatly accelerates its penetration and reduces waste in vain for evaporation and penetration in depth. In the first two years watering through the holes is more practical than other methods. But at a later age, the use of furrows is recommended, reaching 0.5-0.6 meters in depth. When it takes from 48 to 72 hours after irrigation, it is worth loosening the soil and mulching.

Working with garden shears also has its own characteristics. It is necessary to tackle the pruner in the spring to form a crown, and the best moment for this is March and April (before the leaves from the buds are opened). But in the summer it is only allowed to remove branches that block the main vegetative parts. You can still remove the processes that grow along the body of the main axes.

Experienced farmers advise to collect fruits only in cotton gloves. The rougher tissue breaks, rips off even the seemingly strong skin.

The second immutable law of apple picking is “that which fell is then lost” (for stocks). No, an apple that has collapsed to the ground can be used, but only in two ways: either wash and eat right away, or recycle.

It is recommended to keep the stalk on fruit, it reduces the risk of premature decomposition. Useful and natural wax wax. Aspiring to erase it make the big nonsense. They think that hundreds of millions of years of evolution have passed in vain, and that without this armor, fruits can lie for a long time. Meanwhile, nature has acted much smarter - it has created a remedy for drying out.

Fruit picking is recommended when it is dry, ideally in the afternoon. Summer varieties after full maturity are stored very little, they are recommended to collect in August. The way out is harvesting 14–20 days before final maturity. You can store the collected up to 1 month, if you provide a room temperature of 0-3 degrees. Fruits of autumn varieties are harvested at the end of August and in the first days of September, after which they are placed in storage for ripening for 2 or 3 weeks.

Winter apples are removed from the branches in the second month of autumn. Fresh their collection is different some stiffness and sourness. In order for the fruits to reach full condition, it will take 2-3 months. But they can be put on both the New Year and April tables. When removing apples, they are cooled to 4 degrees and transferred to the prepared storage.

The classic way of storage is a wooden box, but the weakness of this option is due to its susceptibility to rotting. The use of plastic containers is allowed, which should be washed and sanitized in advance. Improving the keeping quality of apples helps filling in tanks of sawdust from hardwood. Coniferous sawdust is distinguished by its resinous aroma, which will be perceived by the fruit. Straw is poorly likely to produce mold.

Selected wood chips have a moisture limit of 20% (and better - 15%). A good result gives shifting apples leaves of oak (maple), peat chips, dried moss. These components differ in antibacterial characteristics.

The ripening is most active in large fruits. For bookmarks, it is worth selecting containers with small products. Disinfection is done with bleach, after which thorough drying is required. Bottoms of boxes covered with clean white paper and sawdust. Sawdust take so much that the first tier of the fruit was completely covered.

No matter how hard the gardeners try to provide the trees with everything they need, so that the efforts that are made end in obtaining a tasty abundant crop, they will have to fight infections and pests. Mealy dew is a disease that readily attacks a wide variety of crops. It hits all vital parts of the trees and begins to manifest itself as a whitish bloom.

When the infection is strengthened, it will undermine the tone of the plant. Winter fungus is not terrible, when the heat returns, he will be able to continue his work. The fight against the disease, as well as its prevention, should be carried out as soon as possible. Specialized drugs are used in the spring, trying to get ahead of the full deployment of leaves. At the end of flowering protection of apple trees provide, applying copper oxychloride and other compounds.

It is necessary to continue to suppress powdery mildew even after removing apples. Then you will need a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulphate, diluted with liquid soap.

Scab - no less serious disease, it robs the apple leaves and prevents the fruit from pouring. Adults and young trees are treated to the same extent in the spring using Topaz. The recommended proportion is 2 g per 10 liters of water.

The top three among the fungal infections of apple closes cytosporosis. It attacks single areas on the cortex, which does not make the disease safer. Gradually, the affected areas are increasing, the bark is drying along with the branches. In case of adverse events, the death of the tree occurs quickly. Once again, copper oxychloride drugs come to the gardeners' gain, which are used at the time of bud swelling and immediately before flowering, as well as after it.

If we go from microscopic enemies to quite visible insects, the most important enemy of the owner of the apple orchard will be the green apple aphid. It is present in all regions where there is only food for it. Natural biological protection - ladybug. But when there is none, karbofos helps. From improvised means to replace it will be able to decoction of tobacco in a mixture with soap.

The red mite is known for its stubbornness: sometimes it parasitizes for several years on the same tree, depleting it. Wintering insect occurs in the bends of the bark. First of all, you can notice the pest at the ends of the shoots and foliage.

Copperberry has another name - leafblock. It is painted in a yellow-green tone and endures even the most ferocious winter without loss of livestock. When the buds swell and bloom, it will be extremely difficult to identify the enemy in the green. Then it remains to fumigate plants with tobacco smoke or coat them with dissolved karbofos.

The apple moth is another enemy of any apple orchard. She also adapted to the climate of the Russian regions. She settles on the leaves and eats them. The key counterparts are chlorophos and zolone. The leaf-worm makes a worthy competition for the apple moth in the area of ​​distribution; it bypasses the rare garden with its attention.

Like other insects, the leafworm should be suppressed as early as possible. It is better to process the plants before it masters fresh foliage. Apple is first treated with nitrophene. Then, as soon as the buds bloom, use chlorophos. Fighting against a tsvetoedom implies for the most part its mechanical shaking off from the affected areas; chemical support is provided by chlorophos or karbofos.

See how to plant an apple tree in the next video.