Apple "Sun": description of the variety and the secrets of planting

About the sort of apple trees "Sun" know a little gardeners, and absolutely nothing. This variety is quite a good choice.According to the general characteristics, it stands out among many of the most well-known varieties and can be grown not only in personal plots and in personal subsidiary farms, but also on an industrial scale.

Apple "Sun" is an autumn, ripening in late. This variety was bred by Russian breeders in the twentieth century, and in 1993 was credited to the list of the best varieties.

Apple variety "Sun" has its own characteristics.

• The crown has a rounded shape.
• The tree is undersized.
• The bark on the trunk and branches extending from it have a dark brown color and a smooth structure.
• The shoots are thick, angular in shape, slightly curved, the edges are clearly visible on the cut.
• Lentils on the bark stand out, but in small quantities.
• Buds of large size, conical shape, slightly mast, are close to the stem.
• The leaves are of medium size, the shape of an egg, the tip is twisted, of green and brilliant color; the edges of the leaves are jagged. Recognize only the leaves "Sun" will not succeed, but many apple trees, they are slightly different. Therefore, if we take into account the shape of the shoots and the appearance of the apples, the configuration of the leaves will be a pretty obvious sign.
• The scape has a short and thick form, with very pronounced pubescence.
• Inflorescence "Sun" a handful of four - six pieces.
• Flowers of small size in the form of a saucer.
• The petals are pinkish, the buds, before blooming, are painted white with a pink color.
• Endings of stamens and pistils are located on the same level.

These apples growing in the shade may not be painted over the entire surface. They have an oblong shape, with slightly pronounced ribs, slightly beveled to the base. On average, the weight of the fetus is about one hundred and forty grams, rarely reaches two hundred. The peel is smooth, medium density, oily in appearance. At harvest, the main color of the fruit is yellowish-green, and when fully ripe it is light yellow. The coat of coloring in “Sun” covers almost the entire fruit and has the appearance of a kind of brown-red blush.

Other characteristics of this variety:

• many large spots under the skin;
• stem bearing the fruit, straight and short, its location curved relative to the apple;
• medium-sized saucer;
• the core has the shape of an onion;
• seeds of the closed type;
• seed color is light brown.

The main advantages of the variety are:

• trees are not very tall;
• fruits are attractive in appearance;
• excellent frost resistance;
• resistant to scab.

Virtually no cons. The variety is poorly understood, and therefore there is little information about it. Feedback on this variety is mostly positive.

Planting and caring for the variety "Sun" is basically identical to planting and caring for other apple trees.

If the autumn season has stood out long and heavy rains, it is better to land at this time. If this weather has stood out in the spring, then, accordingly, in this period. This is due to the fact that an apple tree needs time when a relatively low temperature, preferably about plus ten degrees, and as a result of prolonged rains, soil moisture becomes high.

Such conditions are necessary so that the victims when digging the roots can recover a little and have the opportunity to provide the tree itself. Only when there are seedlings in separate tanks, such a root system is protected. The only difference is that planted in containers of apple varieties "Sun" is very rare.

Ignorant gardeners often purchase large, up to two meters, seedlings with many branches, often with leaves, and the root system is in very poor condition. These are mainly three or four year old plants. Thin annual sprouts do not cause demand. This can be explained by the fact that many believe: large seedlings will begin to bear fruit three years earlier than the same age, but this happens if they take root.And the older the apple tree, the worse it gets acclimated, since the roots can not cope with the supply of water and mineral salts that fall to the bottom of the trunk. As a result, a small annual sapling most often develops faster than a three-year-old, and produces fruit two years earlier.

It is better to buy a single or biennial plant, with a two-year lower cost.

What you need to pay attention when purchasing seedlings:

• compulsory on the health of the inoculation area;
• for the absence of any damage;
• on the roots, it is better if they are larger.

Place for planting need to prepare in advance, about two weeks before planting, so that the soil has time to settle. The best option would be to carry out this work in August, since in the fall on the land lot of work.

The hole is dug to a depth of at least eighty centimeters, with a diameter about the same, preferably more. For two, or even three years, the root system of the low-grade cultivar “Sun” will produce its development mainly within the well. If all the necessary substances are in the landing pit, the tree will grow faster.

If clay is present in the soil, then it is desirable to add sand and a large amount of humus to the well. In principle, the clay for an apple tree is not bad when the groundwater flows shallowly. Conversely, when the soil is saturated with sand, the bottom of the hole should be covered with a clay layer about fifteen centimeters thick.

Pit for planting apple filled with a mixture of soil. When there is no turf land, you can use a mixture of land from the garden and compost. Compost is better to add a four-year extract, it lacks natural residues suitable for germination. In the proportions of one to one, about two hundred grams of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added to the same. Potassium chloride is not recommended to use, apple trees do not tolerate excessive amounts of chlorine in the ground. Fertilizers containing nitrogen are also undesirable.

Description of planting apple "Sun" includes several steps.

1. Put a small bar across the hole so that the zero point is visible.
2. Set the seedling on a clear vertical. If the pit has been recently prepared, the root neck should be positioned five centimeters above the bar. In another case, the root neck should be at zero.
3. You need to take an assistant to keep the apple tree straight, and in the meantime, fill the roots in the hole with soil. And the assistant should periodically shake the sapling, in the meantime, someone ram the ground with his feet. Tamper soil around the roots need to carefully.
4. At the end of the work with the hole, it is necessary to ram once again, create something like a fence around the soil around the hole, and water it abundantly. From careful watering the land will settle better. Then again it is necessary to fill the soil.

The rate of adding feedings for apple trees depends on many factors:

• stock;
• age;
• soil composition and the like.

Fertilizer is better to make before the rain in the area under the crown and near the area. Natural fertilizers are humus and compost. Such organic matter can be added about thirty kilograms per sapling and up to one hundred kilograms per adult tree.

This procedure is as important as fertilizing. Moreover, there are many ways to prune the same tree. However, there are basic rules.

• Such a process is necessary.
• The best period for pruning is spring before adaptation to local conditions or autumn after the completion of this phenomenon.
• It is necessary as far as possible to prevent the growth of the tree in height, as it is rather difficult to collect the fruits and take care of the branches at a height of over three meters.Pruning this low-grade tree also needs such a procedure - if it is not prevented from growing, then about a meter will be difficult to harvest and care for the “Sunshine”.
• The barrel should not be split apart.
• It is necessary to remove all branches with damage and signs of illness.
• Be sure to remove what grows into the crown.
• Trim branches that prevent light from reaching other branches.

It is necessary to water a tree in a case when there was no torrential rains for three weeks. In the period of flowering and when the ovary is formed, then two weeks. On loose soil it is necessary to water abundantly, since the moisture will quickly go into the depths. In areas with clay soil, watering should be done carefully: stagnant water for fruit trees is bad.

A big role is played by the charge of moisture in the autumn. Since the apple trees, including the variety "Sun", are very suffering in the cold cold from lack of moisture. Therefore, in the autumn season, for two weeks before the frost, fruit trees should be watered abundantly.

Like any plant, this apple variety can have diseases.

• Scab is a common disease of apple trees, but since the variety in question is resistant to it, it’s not worth worrying about it.
• It is necessary to get rid of apples affected by moniliosis. In order to avoid this infection, it is necessary to process the plant with fungicides in the spring.
• A disease such as powdery mildew does not cause much harm. However, it is better to get rid of it. For this you need to apply fungicides. For example, "Cumulus" in the period of development, "Delan" at the time of flowering, and again "Cumulus" in the ovary, which has reached a large size. Naturally, there are other ways.
• The "black cancer" infection is slowly spreading, but it is too dangerous. The best method of protection is to purchase healthy trees, but this will not exclude the possibility of infection. If this happens, then it is necessary to remove all susceptible shoots, thoroughly clean the affected areas on large branches, and treat the sections and areas for stripping with fungicides.

The apple-flowered beetle is an insect in the form of a beetle, and only harms the apple tree. With its small reproduction, it may even be beneficial, since flowers will lose, as a result, the tree has more strength to develop the ovary. Develop the entire ovary of an apple tree is very difficult. But in the case when the population of beetles is large, they can significantly reduce the yield.

Aphids on apple trees are about five species. They suck the juice from the buds and fresh leaves, clog up the sprouts with secretions saturated with sugar, and occasionally strike the ovary. In the case of a large population of aphid can cause great harm.

The codling moth is probably one of the most dangerous enemies of apple trees. The insect in the form of a butterfly, laying eggs on the foliage nearby with the ovary, then the born larva climbs into the ovary and feeds on it.

On how to choose the right apple seedlings, see the following video.