How to get rid of cherries in the area?

Cherry is one of the most unpretentious and drought-resistant plant species, and its fruits are loved by almost everyone.Perhaps the only drawback of this tree can be called annually appearing processes, from which there is no save, as they are not cut. If you are tired of annually (and often several times during the season) doing their removal, then the knowledge of how to get rid of the cherries on the site will be very useful.

It would seem that this is an obvious step, but even experienced gardeners sometimes neglect it. But you only need to carefully study this issue once, and reducing the number of shoots will be a matter of technique. So, the reasons for the appearance of shoots can be several:

• freezing of a tree due to a snowless and cold winter;
• burns obtained in cool and damp spring weather;
• root damage when digging up soil next to a tree;
• too much cropped crown;
• various diseases and pests.

Summarizing these reasons, it can be said that with any negative impact, the cherry begins active reproduction by root shoots.

Having found out the main reasons provoking rapid growth of shoots, You can form a set of rules for the proper care of cherries.

• Cardinal pruning of old plants is unacceptable. And young trees require timely removal of shoots.
• Any "excavation" under a tree and planting of vegetable or fruit crops are contraindicated. Even minor damage to the root system can cause overgrowth.
• It is necessary to water a plant seldom and plentifully. The number of shoots increases, if done often and gradually.
• It is important to mulch the soil under the trees. Otherwise, in hot weather, the soil cracks, causing damage to the roots and undesirable consequences.
• If you have time and effort around the circumference of the trunk at a distance of one meter, you can bury sheets of slate. Usually it is enough to do this at a depth of 50 cm. Instead of slate, you can use other unnecessary material (sheeting, sheets of tin and so on). As a result, shoots appear only within this circle, not spreading throughout the site.
• Eating cherry fruit, you can not spit the seeds on the ground, since seedlings of seeds can cause no less trouble.
• If possible, the cherries should be planted in the shade of large trees. So it will give much less shoots than when placed on open shaded space.

Thanks to the achievements of botany, gardeners have the opportunity, in general, not to waste time and energy on conducting an endless struggle with shoots. Varietal trees grafted on seed stocks of the “Shubinka” or “Vladimirskaya” varieties do not form at all shoots. In some cases, it is advisable to completely get rid of the cherries on the site and plant these varieties.

If for some reason you could not find them, then you can make a choice in favor of "Izmailovo" or "AVCH-2" - they give a minimum of shoots. Among the bushy varieties can be distinguished "English Early", "Lubskoy", "Griot Ostheims", "Chocolate Girl", "Crimson" and "Generous", which also do not cause trouble with their processes.

Prevention in any case is much more effective than manual labor to remove the seedlings. Therefore small additional knowledge about saplings will be useful.

• Most headaches gardeners deliver own-rooted seedlings. But their shoots do not lose their varietal qualities, so such “offspring” can serve as an equivalent substitute for an aged main tree. And also they can be sold. Among the representatives of this variety are such species as "Krasnopakharskaya", "Apukhtinskaya" and "Shubinka".
• Varietal trees from clone rootstocks also produce a lot of shoots, but these are only wild, completely unsuitable for reproduction.The prospect of having a lot of overgrown on the site, which is of no value, probably will not please anyone. Therefore, you should not get involved in the varieties "Malinovka", "Youth", "Memory Yenikeeva", "Rastorguevskaya."

Unfortunately, gardeners learn about preventive measures and preventing the appearance of shoots too late - when the choice of seedlings has been made a long time ago and, having become mature plants, they have already given abundant growth. At this stage, you need to use the described recommendations for the proper care of plants, but it is equally important to organize the correct removal of the seedlings. First, we make a small summary of the practical experience of experienced gardeners.

• Many argue that removing unwanted shoots in the spring immediately after swelling of the kidneys helps to reduce the rate of their growth.
• Some mow down unglued grass with a lawnmower. It still grows, but with this method, time and energy is saved.
• Most experts agree that the method of removing shoots is not critical. The main thing is to do it on time - immediately after they appear, not allowing to gain strength. Only then they will be less;

These are the tips of ordinary people. But there are scientifically based recommendations from the field of botany. They boil down to the fact that you need to buy and plant those varieties that do not give shoots at all. Because of the position of the scientific community that is so flawless but distant from the realities of ordinary people, there is still no consensus among gardeners about the correct way to remove shoots.

There are two main ways of mechanical removal of the shoots. As practice shows, if a person has become an adherent of one of them, then ideological considerations will not allow him to try the second way. The logic and philosophy of these methods are so opposite. First consider the one that is more time consuming. It includes several steps:

• first you need to dig a sprout to the place where it grows from a horizontal tree root;
• then gently chop it off, leaving no hemp;
• then carefully treat this area of ​​the root with a garden pitch so that in the future nothing will grow there and the tree will not become infected with diseases;
• it remains to bury this hole and trample.

Such a simple, but energy-intensive operation must be done with all the shoots that are on the site. Proponents of this method argue that the only way to solve the problem.

The second method takes much less time and effort. It consists in the fact that the shoots need to be cut with shears at ground level. The adherents of this method claim that the young growth cannot exist without the underground part, so by cutting it you can gradually “wean” the cherry from the craving for reproduction by root shoots. That is, at this place a new process will not appear, and all the forces of the tree will be concentrated on the maturation of the crop.

It is very difficult for novice gardeners to sort out this issue and take sides. The two opposing camps not only consider each other incompetent, but also accuse them of provoking the growth of new shoots. Proponents of the method of digging argue that when cutting overgrown in the ground, hemp and buds remain, of which even more powerful sprouts will grow next year.

The adherents of the cutting method are sure that when digging up a shoot from the root of a plant, the replanting program inherent in young cultures is started, and next year several shoots will appear in the same place.The parties believe that the method of the opposite side not only does not solve the problem, but also increases its scale.

The previous recommendations were intended for those who love and want to grow cherries, and at the same time are looking for effective ways to deal with the processes. But there are those who do not like the fruits of this tree. And if such a person, as a result of a purchase or inheritance, becomes the owner of a plot with a neglected cherry orchard, then radical measures cannot be avoided. There are several ways to solve the problem, how to remove the growth.

• The fastest and most efficient is to dig everything in with an excavator or tractor. Of course, if heavy equipment can enter the site, and no buildings interfere with its passage directly to the cherry orchard.
• But also with the help of heavy machinery, you can pull out the main trees along with the roots, after which you can forget about the shoots.

• If for some reason the mechanized method is unacceptable, then it is possible to cut off all processes and cut down the main trees, and then manually dig up and uproot the roots of the plants.
• If the site is quite large, and the territory of the cherry orchard is not needed for any purpose right now, then you can get by just cutting and cutting down what is on the surface and wait until the roots rot naturally. True, the operation for mowing up the shoots will have to be performed several times per season, but in a couple of years this need will disappear, since the plants cannot survive without the above-ground part.

These methods are also suitable for those who decide to stop the annual struggle with shoots and plant on their site those varieties of cherries, which, in general, do not give seedlings.

An even more radical solution to the problem is the use of herbicides, which will help to destroy all the shoots. This is dangerous not only when removing the overgrowth with preservation of the uterine tree, but also with the complete elimination of cherry orchards. The poisonous chemical will certainly perform its main function and cause the death of plants, penetrating into their roots. However, it will remain in the ground, showing persistent residual effects. And the collapse of the herbicide will not occur as quickly as its manufacturers claim. In addition, the use of a chemical leads only to the death of plants, the need for digging up and uprooting the roots still remains.

In this way, the most effective way to get rid of cherries in the area is to remove existing trees with roots. Instead, you need to purchase and plant varietal seedlings on the seed stock, which do not give seedlings that will only bear fruit well. Modern botany cannot offer a better method.

How to get rid of overgrown cherries, see below.