How to grow and propagate grapes cuttings?

Grapes - a perennial climbing plant, widespread throughout the world, with tasty and healthy berries. Therefore, willing to grow grapes is becoming more and more. Breeding grapes is not an easy task, requiring knowledge of the methods of its cultivation, cultivation and care.

There are several ways to grow grapes, but each of them is a difficult and multi-step process. One of the methods of cultivation of grapes is the breeding of chubuan. Chubuk translated from Turkic means - wand, thin twig. Chubuk often called the handle. To multiply grapes with the help of Chubuk is the most convenient and simple method.

Chubuk or stalk is a part of the vine, necessarily having several buds. Chubuk reproduction - grafting - is based on the ability of the grapes to start roots on both the woody and green sprouts, which are the basis for harvesting the cubs. Chubuk wood harvested in the fall from the stiffened maternal vine. Green cuttings can be harvested from green shoots throughout the growing season. Reproduction by cuttings has both positive and negative points.

Chubuk growing has the following advantages:

• grafting is not limited to the number of seedlings, they can be grown as much as you like;
• as chubukov, you can use healthy autumn shoots of grape vines;
• cuttings can be taken from the neighbors in the country, acquaintances, change grape varieties, they can be sent by mail;
• chubuki, if you buy them, are much cheaper than the bred grapes;
• chubuki grown houses and roots are ready for transplantation and the engraftment process will be faster;
• harvested chubuki from their vineyard or taken from friends, guarantee confidence in the truth of the variety.

The duration of the cultivation of seedlings is the main disadvantage of this method. It is also worth noting that when sprouting the cuttings at home, a large amount of packaging is required for planting, the presence of a rather large and warm space.

Breeding grapes by grafting begins with harvesting chubukov. This is an important point in the process of their cultivation. It is believed that cuttings are best harvested in the fall. At this time, the vine ripened and completed the process of accumulation of nutrients.

The time of landing of the chubukov in the ground depends on the climate conditions and can be carried out in the period from May to June, when there are no frosts anymore. If the cuttings prepared in autumn are well preserved in the winter, then in the spring they will take root without any problems and will be accepted. Sometimes planting cuttings in early spring under the film. And when the weather stabilizes, the covering material is removed.

When cutting, consider the following rules:

• the vine is chosen only healthy, without any signs of disease, mold or damage, cracks, blackening;
• the most suitable is a fruiting vine, not stepchildren;
• The best part for cutting the cuttings is the upper and middle shoots, which have accumulated a lot of sun and well ripened;
• the vine must have the correct form, be smooth, straight, without knots;
• shoots with dark green bark, 7–10 mm in diameter (ideally 8 mm) are selected;
• Cut the chubuki very carefully and bear in mind that on each side of the cut there must be some distance to the kidney, preferably 4–5 cm; the cut is made on the oblique in the opposite direction from the bud, and the lower part of the cutting is cut in the forward direction under the bud;
• the length of the cutting should be 15–40 cm, because very short cuttings difficult to take root, and high - poorly preserved.

The cuttings can also be carried out with green chibukov. This is done in the summer.Young grape shoots and are green cuttings. The main condition for this type of reproduction is to cut the cuttings in time until the buds are made.

This type of grafting has the following rules:

• strong, healthy shoots are selected;
• shoots are cut with a very sharp knife at a right angle;
• the shoot is separated from the vine under the stem of the bundle;
• the cut-off shoot is divided into chubuki, they should have 2-3 buds and two leaves, one of them is torn off, and the second sheet is made one third smaller, keeping the stepson of the upper sheet;
• if the green cuttings are not mature enough, they are pre-grown;
• the cuttings planted in the ground give roots faster if they are covered with a film of polyethylene;
• Green cuttings planted in the ground are watered once a week.

Breeding from green chubukov requires the fulfillment of such conditions as:

• high humidity is required in both soil and atmosphere;
• the required temperature range is from +25 to +30 degrees;
• sprouts of green cuttings require cultivation in the greenhouse, in extreme cases - in containers covered with glass or covering material; lime is applied to the glass, which provides penumbra;
• landing boxes must be 50 cm deep;
• the soil is filled to 15 cm, of which 10 cm of humus, and 5 cm of sand;
• all soil layers are well watered;
• green chubuki planted in the sand to a depth of 1 cm.

After the material has been prepared for grafting, the cuttings are prepared for storage, which is carried out as follows:

• all stepchildren, mustaches, top and foliage are removed from escape;
• To improve the process of root formation in the lower part of the cutting, three vertical stripes 3 cm long should be made with a needle or other sharp and thin object;
• sort the cuttings, make bunches, mark the grade;
• immerse the cuttings in the water for the whole day to increase their humidity;
• for the prevention of infection by harmful bacteria, cuttings should be placed in a 5% solution of copper sulfate or 2% of vitriol for 30 minutes, although a weak solution of manganese can be used;
• The cuttings are wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in the cold (basement, refrigerator, and other cool places).

To prevent drying of the cuttings harvested from the autumn, the method of waxing is used. In the melted paraffin should add a small amount of garden vara. Then in paraffin cooled to +80 degrees you need to dip the upper part of the cutting along with the kidney.

You can store grape cuttings in winter in several ways.

• It should be buried in the ground using trenches. The cuttings placed in trenches should be covered with a layer of earth (30–40 cm), then a layer of sawdust, peat or foliage should be covered with a thickness of 5 cm. However, this method is unreliable because it is not known whether it will be possible to dig cuttings from the ground in February.
• Storage in a cold basement or cellar. With this method of storage grape chubukov placed in any dish with wet sand. You can also store them in lightly wet sawdust in bags.
• For storage, you can use the refrigerator. Grape cuttings, wrapped in plastic with holes or a damp cloth, are kept in the refrigerator in winter (temperature ranges from 0 to -5 degrees).

Before proceeding to spring germination Chubuk, it is necessary to carry out the preparatory work.

Preparation for germination begins in February and includes the following steps:

• all the remaining cuttings are carefully inspected, dried cuttings are removed or with rot;
• a paraffin layer is removed from the cuts on the pipe and a new cut is made;
• conduct disinfection chubukov, soaking them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
• then the cuttings must be soaked for 1 day; To accelerate the process of reducing the cutting, heteroauxin or epine is added to the liquid, sometimes honey (1 tablespoon per 10 liters), aloe juice diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2, or sodium humate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters) are used for the stimulating solution;
• if furrowing was not done before storage, it is carried out before germination; grooves are made on the lower part of the stalk with a sharp thin object, for example, a needle, several centimeters long on all sides; after some time, a white sugary-looking tissue (callus) is formed in these grooves, from which roots will later grow.

It is possible to germinate chubuki with success also at home, adhering to a certain sequence.

• After soaking in the stimulating solution, the cuttings, with a high degree of probability, have already formed the roots. If the cuttings do not give roots, then it is necessary to extend the period of stay in the stimulating solution. The time of root formation is influenced by many factors - temperature, lighting, humidity, care, the quality of the cuttings, and even the variety.
• After the appearance of the roots can be rooted in the ground. Pre-prepared for this ground. First, the earth is heat treated by heat. You can warm the ground in a furnace or oven, where a container with the ground is placed. Pure sand (preferably coarse-grained) in proportion one part of sand to three parts of the soil is added to the soil treated in this way. This makes the soil softer and facilitates rooting. You can add a small amount of fertilizer to the soil. The best option is to use a mixture of organic and mineral fertilizers, which will ensure rapid growth and the formation of a strong vine.
• Then the germinated stalk is planted separately. As a container, you can use cut plastic bottles and cups.

You can use different variants of rooting cuttings.

It occurs as follows:

• in the bottom of high plastic glasses three holes are made;
• pre-prepared nutrient soil is placed on the bottom of the glass, while the soil layer is 2 cm thick;
• a smaller glass with a pre-cut bottom is placed on the ground inside the first glass, the resulting empty space between the walls of the two glasses is covered with earth, compacted and watered;
• clean sand is poured into an inner cup, poured over with water, and then the inner cup is removed;
• in the middle a hole is made to a depth of 4 cm, a cutting is placed in it and watered;
• then it is filled with sand, the container is covered with an unopened plastic bottle cut from the bottom;
• cuttings are watered regularly every two days;
• when the roots germinate (they can be seen through the glass) and 4 leaves form on the handle, the bottle is removed.

Carried out as follows:

• a plastic bottle is cut off the top, and holes are made in the bottom;
• down you need to put the drainage, and on top of it add about 7 tablespoons of nutrient soil;
• the stalk should be placed in the soil so that the bud located in the upper part of the stalk is flush with the top of the bottle;
• up should be poured steamed sawdust;
• a pipe planted in a bottle is placed by a kidney from a window;
• as soon as the shoot sprouts grow, it will not fit in a glass, it is removed;
• watering should be carried out from the bottom, pouring water into the pan and placing a bottle with a handle in it for 15 minutes.

This is the easiest and most popular method of chubuk sprouting.

It includes the following actions:

• a layer of cotton or gauze is laid on the bottom of the jar;
• water is poured to a height of 2-3 cm;
• the lowermost kidney must be removed, otherwise the escape from it will overtake the development in the upper part of the stem;
• the cuttings are placed in a jar so that the liquid does not reach the first lower bud;
• as it evaporates, water is added, keeping a distance of about 2 cm between the water level and the kidney, since the formation of the roots is faster just at the turn of the liquid and air;
• water is replaced when it becomes cloudy, which means the appearance of harmful bacteria in it; to prevent this, it is advisable to change the water 1 time in three days;
• to speed up the rooting process, the jar can be covered with polyethylene, piercing the surface of the film with cuttings and freeing them - this is how the greenhouse effect is created;
• with the appearance of leaves and processes, the strongest is removed, because it slows down the development of the roots;
• when the roots are 2 cm long, the cuttings can be transplanted into a container with earth;
• the soil should consist of soil and compost, taken one by one, and sand, preferably coarse-grained (2 parts);
• cuttings are planted on a third of the length, so that there is room for root growth.

Chubuki grown with this method are distinguished by strong roots.

This method includes the following actions:

• peat tablets are poured abundantly before swelling;
• the lower end of the cutting is inserted into the pill;
• the cuttings are wrapped in a damp cloth, then in polyethylene;
• they are placed in a warm place and kept until the roots.

This method is used when it is necessary to germinate a lot of cuttings. The bottom of the cuttings prepared for germination is wrapped in a wet cloth, then in polyethylene, after which they are placed on the cabinet so that the tops of the pins are turned toward the light source, for example, towards the window. It should regularly maintain the moisture content of the fabric.

This unusual way of germination is sometimes used by aquarium owners. Foam made border on the edge of the aquarium. Chubuki immersed in the water of the aquarium about 3 cm, while the kidneys should be in the air. Constant aeration of the aquarium and the vital activity products released by the fish have a beneficial effect on the development of the root system. You can protect the cuttings with partitions made of glass from damage that fish can cause.

On the newspaper, moss, sintepone, foam rubber. The cuttings are placed on well-moistened material, wrapped in a roll, covered with polyethylene and placed in heat.

This method is possible in regions with warm climates. Chubuki are planted directly into the soil, if they are purchased quite late, and there is no time for their preliminary germination at home. Planted cuttings should be at a temperature above 16 degrees, approximately at the end of May. Chubuk trees are planted every 25 cm. You can cover them with a covering material or cans to create the greenhouse effect for about 14 days. The advantage of this method of germinating chubukov is that it requires less time.

The cuttings that gave the roots, before planting in the soil, need to be strengthened. They are transplanted into containers with nutrient soil, a volume of about a liter. Plant rooted cuttings must be carefully, so as not to damage the delicate roots. Planted cuttings abundantly watered. For the correct development of the crown of the future vine tops to pinch.

If chubuki develop poorly and do not give roots, they do kilchevaniye. The peculiarity of the awakening of the cuttings after the winter is that the buds first of all awaken, leaves and shoots grow, absorbing nutrients from the cutting, to the detriment of the growth of the still-sleeping root. This can lead to the death of Chubuk. Kilchevanie is to create conditions for accelerated root growth and slow development of the apex. This can be achieved by creating a temperature difference for different parts of the cutting.

For successful root growth, a temperature of + 24– + 26 degrees is necessary. To prevent premature shoots and leaves, a temperature of + 14– + 16 degrees is needed. To create such conditions use a special device - keelcheater. The simplest method of kilchevaniya is the placement of cuttings in the greenhouse. Chubuki placed in a container with its roots up. They are covered with sand, covered with film or glass. Under the shelter, heat is created that heats the sand, the roots begin to germinate in warmth, and the upper part of the cutting remains in a cooler place, which delays the development and dissolution of the buds.

Kilchevator can be done in another way. Tara is filled with sawdust, pre-steamed and abundantly watered with water, their layer should be about 4 cm. Pre-soaked in water (2–3 days) tububuk should be tied up in 15 pieces and put into the container straight up, placing them in slices in sawdust. Pour dry sawdust on top and set it on warm radiators. The duration of kilching is 2–3 weeks. Another simplest method of kilchevaniya is installing cuttings on window sills windows. The roots will be on the windowsill, warmed by the battery, and the top of the cutting will be near the cold glass window.

Kilchevanie can be carried out as follows:

• cut off the top of a plastic bottle;
• holes are made in the bottom and drainage is poured to the bottom;
• a wet mixture of earth, sand and sawdust (substrate) is poured into the bottle;
• Chubuk is placed in the substrate under the slope so that the kidney above the substrate is directed upwards;
• the cup is covered with a plastic cup;
• The keeper must be kept in a warm place;
• watering is carried out from the pallet;
• when an escape appears, the glass is removed.

Planting roots with developed roots is the last stage in the cultivation of the vine. Properly planted cutting is a guarantee of high-quality grapevine and future harvest. The timing of planting sprouted cuttings, good and prepared soil, a well-defined landing site, correct pits and transferred cuttings are the necessary conditions for successful engraftment and development of cuttings.

There are no precisely defined terms for planting cuttings in the spring. Basically, these terms depend on the location of the regions and their inherent climatic conditions. The most favorable time for planting cuttings in the ground comes at air temperatures up to +15 degrees, and the soil should warm up to +10 degrees, which corresponds to the period from late April to June for different regions. Sprouting Chubuk in most parts of Russia is preferably planted from April 15 to May 15, if the weather permits. At this time, the weather usually stabilizes, the possibility of frost disappears at night, which can have a detrimental effect on the planted cuttings, the necessary temperature regime of air and soil is established. Later on May 20 it is undesirable to plant cuttings for central Russia, since they take root worse. In some regions of Russia, early disembarkation is also used, covering the cuttings with plastic wrap.

Spring planting cuttings has such advantages as:

• the absence of strong frosts in the second half of spring ensures that the cutting will take root;
• in spring there is a faster survival of cuttings, which contributes to its resistance to cold;
• spring has a longer time to prepare the soil;
• during the melting of the snow, the soil has accumulated a large amount of moisture with beneficial substances that the cutting will feed on, which will accelerate its growth.

First of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the landing site.

It is desirable that next to no such plants as:

• fruit shrubs and trees that give shade to the vine and are additional sources of infection with various diseases;
• flower gardens, growing garden plants;
• poplars and walnuts, because the grapes do not make them close.

A spacious, well-lit place is best suited, preferably on the south, southeast, or southwest side of the site.

Vine loves slightly acidic soil, with the addition of peat, earth (garden or sod), humus and always sand. Land should be well ventilated to prevent stagnant water.

Before planting the cutting, it is necessary to prepare a place as follows:

• remove branches, leaves and other debris;
• dig up the ground to the depth of the spade's bayonet;
• loosen the ground well;
• if there is a danger of infection with any fungus, treat the soil with fungicides.

Produced in several stages.

• Trench for planting cuttings should have a direction from north to south. The optimal trench width is 1 m, the depth is four spade bayonets.
• At the bottom of the trench put a well-mixed layer of humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m² and nitrophoska - 60 g per 1 m². Then, large crushed stone is filled up as a drainage, the next layer is the ground with trenches about 30 cm thick. Then again it is necessary to repeat the layers of humus with nitrophoska and crushed stones that are mixed. Crushed stone is no longer added to subsequent layers. The soil and the nutrient mixture alternate until the trench is completely filled, which then is well watered.
• To protect the soil from drying it is necessary to sprinkle it with mulch, a layer of about 30 cm. Mulch is prepared in advance from sawdust and chicken manure in a ratio of 1: 1. Mulching not only protects the soil from drying out, but is also an additional source of nutrients.

This is the landing of germinated chubukov in the ground. You can sit them in trenches and pits. The optimum interval for planting is 35–45 cm. It is more efficient to plant two cuttings in case one does not take root or is very weak, then it should be removed. Chubukov need to sit down at an angle of 45 degrees. Bury the cutting in such a way that the 2 buds are at the top, after which it is covered with earth. Then well watered (two buckets on the stalk).

The rules for planting cuttings also depend on the type of soil.

For chernozem, the landing order is as follows:

• the pit in which the cuttings will be planted should have a length, width and depth of 80 cm;
• a mixture of earth and humus should fill a quarter of the pit and trample well;
• the next layer is made of fertilizers: 3 liters of ash should be mixed with potassium and superphosphate (300 g each);
• the third layer is the earth;
• all three layers must fill half the pit;
• in the middle of the pit it is necessary to form a mound, put a cutting vertically into it, slightly tilting and straightening the roots;
• soil, you need to fill the cuttings before escaping, well trampling the ground, and pour 2-3 buckets of water, with watering done every two weeks.

To make a good vine from the cuttings For cuttings requires constant care, which will allow to grow good grapes.

• Permanent loosening of the earth.
• Weed removal. Weeding is carried out with the growth of weeds. Land should be loosened weekly for better aeration of the roots of the seedling.
• Systematic watering. The frequency of watering seedlings is once every two weeks for a bucket on the cutting. It should be watered under the vine.
• Prevention of seedlings from disease. To prevent disease using ready-made drugs that are sold in large quantities in stores. You can also use copper sulfate.
• Garter shoots. Growing shoots are tied to the stakes, and the trellis can be made later with the appearance of many shoots.
• Regular feeding fertilizer.Fertilizers use only organic - compost, humus, diluted chicken manure and others. They are made no more than four times a year.

You should follow a few tips from the experts.

• Preparing the soil for planting grapes is better in the fall. Then in the spring in the prepared soil will be a lot of nutrients for the development of the vine.
• If you fail to plant all the seedlings in the spring, they can be planted in the fall. The remaining seedlings are transplanted into a container with holes in the bottom, they need to be half buried in the soil and periodically watered, and planted in the fall in the soil.
• For irrigation it is better to use warm distilled water. And at the end of the summer watering can stop completely, which will help the maturation of the shoots.

How to propagate the grapes by cuttings, see the following video.