When and how to plant grapes in order to get in the future fruitful vine?

Grapes - one of the most ancient crops grown by man. A variety of tastes, variety of varieties, healing properties are praised in the literature, revered by gardeners and winemakers. What to grow a vine, you need to make a lot of effort, but the resulting crop is worth it.

The optimal time for planting grapes is the period when the air temperature reaches +15 degrees, and the earth warms up to +10. The most accurate dates depend on the climatic conditions of the area.

Agronomists involved in the cultivation of this culture, propose to consider not only the spring planting procedure, but also the autumn version. In order to make a choice, it is necessary to understand the advantages and disadvantages of each method.

In regions where there is no risk of repeated severe frosts, seedlings are best planted in the spring.

The advantages of this method include the following criteria:

• Plants take root quickly and in the following warm months they gain strength for wintering, since the spring period contributes to increased sap flow along the stems and leaves. Shoots grow better, the root system develops faster.
• With early planting, the seedlings are hardened, which increases their resistance to cold and various diseases.
• Heated land will give away everything that has accumulated in the fall and early spring, so that the grapes quickly take root and actively grow.
• Varieties have been developed that will be bearing fruit in the second year of spring planting. In the autumn planting, the crop is obtained a year later.

Among the shortcomings are the following factors:

• Grape saplings, as a rule, are sold in autumn, so they will have to be stored until spring. If you do not do it correctly, then the cuttings can be lost.
• In the spring, “hungry” insects wake up, and with the advent of heat, bacteria are activated. Therefore, it is important to properly and timely disinfect the plants.
• It is impossible to eliminate the risk associated with natural disasters by 100%. As practice shows, even in the southern regions there are sudden frosts that are disastrous for the thermophilic grapes.
• In some regions in the spring there is a lack of moisture. Gardeners to remedy the situation in these cases, mulch planting sawdust or humus and increase the number of irrigations.

Manipulations carried out in the fall also have their positive and negative sides.

Among the advantages are the following:

• Since the market for grape seedlings in autumn is wider than in spring, buyers have more choice.
• When autumn planting in the spring of plants before the growing season begins.

The only disadvantage of late planting of grapes is the need to determine the best time for planting as accurately as possible. If you plant it earlier, the bush can release buds, and after the onset of cold weather, they will freeze and will not give the harvest.

In any of the above options, there are many nuances. The choice should be made by the gardener himself.

After the gardener has determined the desire to grow a vineyard on his plot, there are many questions that need to be resolved before proceeding to planting.

Preparatory work includes several stages.

Site selection also plays a significant role in preparation.

If there are buildings on the site, you should focus on their southern and western sides. Thus, the earth will be warmed by the sun during the day and receive heat from the buildings at night.

The acidity index of the soil in the selected area should be closer to neutral. Strongly acidic earth should be alkalized, fertilizing with wood ash.

The distance from the vineyard to other trees should be no less than 6 meters so that the vine does not entangle them and take nutrients.

To improve the yield of grapes, the soil before spring planting should be fed with organic matter and mineral fertilizers. For this, 2 manure buckets are placed in each hole over the drainage. It should be noted that it should not be fresh, but already rotted. Potash fertilizer (0.15 kg) and superphosphate (0.2 kg) fall asleep along the edges. Experts advise to supplement the nutrient mixture with a liter of wood ash. After the entire volume of the wells are covered with black soil.

For a start it is worth saying that any planting material can now be purchased in agro-industrial stores, as well as fertilizers, tools and equipment for planting and caring for a vineyard. Experienced gardeners plant their own seedlings.

Before planting grapes in open ground, it is necessary to determine which cuttings will be used.

Chubuk or vegetative saplings are produced by forging cuttings in early spring in special containers like a seedling. By the beginning of the vegetative period, the first green leaves appear on them.

The lignified seedling is a grape bush with a life span of one year, which was dug out in the fall for storage. Usually they are stored in dark cool rooms in wet sandy soil. To reduce the risk of rot or mold, the humidity should be maintained at around 85%.

Another way to get a seedling is rooting the vine next to the mother bush, without cutting it off. Since the cuttings do not have a developed root system, they take root worse than seedlings. And the fruits of them can be seen only in 3-4 years.

In the autumn, when the crop is already harvested, a one-year-old vine without defects with live buds is picked on a healthy shrub and cut off for cutting. As a rule, the harvesting of the chubukas falls on the period September-October, depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the ripening period of the grapes. At this time, reduced risk of damage to the kidneys and the bush. Cut off a piece of vine cleaned, carefully removing the leaves. Next, cut into several pieces and each cut off the ends on both sides. The result should be cuttings with at least 4 internodes, preferably more (up to 7). This will allow the spring, without fear, to eliminate the sore spots formed during storage.

The blanks are soaked for 24 hours in ordinary tap water, followed by disinfection with copper sulphate for half an hour. You can instead use a solution of potassium permanganate.

The next stage is drying, for this the cuttings are laid out on a dry newspaper for ventilation.

The finished pipe is wrapped in film. Gardeners harvesting planting material of different varieties, usually sign the names on the markers.

Proper storage of cuttings - a pledge of future high yields. Therefore, they are placed in special cellars with a temperature of 0 to +2 degrees. If there is no such room, then chubuki should be stored in the refrigerator.

Monthly planting material should be inventoried for mold or drying.If the cutting underwent damage, then it is necessary to repeat the manipulations on their disinfection.

Remove the blanks should not before the second half of February, to prepare for planting. Before further action, it is necessary to remove excess shoots, leaving only the strong ones in an amount from 2 to 3. After cuttings are cut and soaked in water at room temperature, then kept in a growth stimulator.

Usually, buds appear first, not roots. At this time, seedlings should stepchild, removing grown shoots.

The fact that the process of development of the roots launched successfully, will prompt the appearance of kalusny hillocks on the branch. After the roots grow, seedlings are transferred to seedlings. To distill the cuttings, they use black soil with sand, which is either steamed in the oven for disinfection or heated in an oven.

Seed pans should have perforated drainage holes. Piglet buried in the soil so that the last upper kidney equals the edge of the container. Prepared seedlings are exposed to southern or eastern windows.

Temperature at this stage is necessary in the range of 20-25 degrees. Water should not be poured on the ground, but in trays. Care should be taken to ensure that the soil does not dry out. Seedlings are considered finished, if 2-3 leaves appear on the cuttings.

The next stage is hardening. The process is to adapt the plants to the street. For this, seedlings are exposed under any deciduous tree so that its shadow protects the seedlings from direct sunlight. After 5-6 days, containers should be taken out to an open place for another week. All surviving plants can be planted.

To get a seedling, in the summer from an adult bush, bend down to the ground a vine and drop it near. Lowering the escape into the pit, it is filled with fallen leaves, turf and rotted manure. It is necessary to carry out regular watering, then by the spring it will form a healthy root system, thanks to which the seedling can be transplanted.

With any method it is important that the sprout is completely healthy with a well-developed root system.

If the seedlings are planted in compliance with all the rules, then this ensures their high survival rate.

Step-by-step instructions will help to carry out all the manipulations correctly.

The vineyard, as a rule, grows in one place for several decades, so the place for its cultivation must be chosen carefully.

For the cultivation of grapes requires fertile land with a large number of nutrients and trace elements. Poor soil is unsuitable for this. To increase the usefulness of the soil when digging add chernozem and various fertilizers.

Clay black soil will require some intervention to create a drainage system and introduce some amount of potash fertilizer.

As for the sandy soil, then there are more problems. Sand passes air and water much faster than other types of soil, respectively, more freezes through, poorly holds moisture, does not accumulate nutrients. This land requires a special approach: the introduction of the clay component, nutrient soil and fertilizer. Watering plants in this case will be more often.

Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to outline the future distance between the bushes. Experts claim that in such cases the scheme of the site can help.

The optimal distance is 2.5 meters, but there are different variations:

• if the seedlings are undersized, then the step can be smaller (up to 1.5 meters);
• Stronger varieties are more likely to develop into a good bush, so there must be at least 2 meters between them;
• between bushes of a variety intended for juice or wine, 80 cm is enough;
• the remaining species adhere to the standard step from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Depth must be correct. Groundwater coming close to the surface should serve as a refusal to plant a vine on this site.

The landing pit can be performed in several ways:

• Under the scrap. The easiest method of all with the least effort. Gardeners practicing it use a long iron pole or a pipe of small diameter. The device is stuck in the ground and rotates into the ground by half a meter. It should be noted that the method is not very effective, since it can only be used on areas with loose fertile soil.

• Trench method involves some labor, but it is more efficient in terms of improving the quality of the crop. A long hole with a depth of 80 to 100 cm with a similar width is dug out as a seat. The length depends on the size of the area. In the trench, layers of crushed stone of different fractions, fertilizer and chernozem are poured. The trench method is justified for large plots of land, defined as a vineyard.

• Individual wells. More suitable for small gardens. Pits digging under each seedling separately. Preparation of the landing site includes the following range of activities:
  1. For each bush a hole is dug up with a diameter of up to 65 cm.
  2. Depth varies from 70 to 90 cm in the middle zone of the country, up to half a meter in the southern regions. The deep hole is designed to protect the cuttings from freezing.
  3. Agronomists advise to dig grooves in the fall, so that the soil is tamped and did not shrink in the spring.
  4. At the bottom of the pit lay a drainage layer of gravel and expanded clay, you can use a brick battle. Drainage height - from 10 to 15 centimeters. It must be carefully sealed, trampled.
  5. For 10 cm from the edge, a section of a drainage pipe is inserted, the diameter of which is 5 cm and the length is 10-15 cm greater than the depth of the pit. It is needed to water and air the root soil.
  6. Next, a bucket of sand and sheet humus mixture, which is rotten leaves, and about 5 buckets of soil and soil with an optimal composition are buried. Some gardeners prefer to alternate these layers when falling asleep pits. All levels are required to tamp.
  7. After that, the well thoroughly watered.
  8. The completion of the preparation is a weekly rest of the seat for the interaction of substances inside the layers.

A seat of any type must be prepared in the fall, even if spring planting is expected. During the autumn-winter period and the beginning of spring, it will have time to get enough moisture and settle.

As mentioned above, there are two ways of planting grapes. It is better to plant one-year-old saplings in the first decade of April, when the buds still “did not wake up”. Planted cuttings that were cut in the autumn, it is better in May days.

If you plan to plant grapes with seedlings, then the following sequence of actions is performed:

• If in the fall the seedling was not dug out for wintering, the sprouted vine is separated from the mother bush with the help of a sharp knife at the base.
• The plant is dug out and, together with a lump of earth, is transferred to the landing site.
• The pit must be at least 50 cm deep.
• The first layer is a drainage from gravel and rubble, the second is compost and fertilizer, the third is black soil.
• Next, the ground should be watered, for the natural shrinkage of the soil need about 3 buckets of water.
• Be sure to support the bush. Usually for this purpose use a thin pipe.
• The seedling must be lowered into the pit by the kidneys to the north, by the roots to the south and attached to the support at an angle of 45 degrees. To ram the land is absolutely impossible.
• A hillock up to 20 cm high is scooped over the roots.

In the case of planting cuttings, the procedure is as follows:

• Prepared and seasoned seedlings are taken from rassadnyh containers.
• The roots are treated with liquid clay or a mixture of 1 liter of water and 1 tablespoon of honey.
• The treated stalk is lowered into the well, filled up and lightly rammed. If the seedling is not short, then it is tilted "head" to the north at an angle of forty-five degrees to the trellis. This will set the right direction for the vine in the future.
• It should be watered with warm, settled water, better rain.
• If the vineyard is planned "from scratch", then the chubuka planted in a trench with a step from 2 to 2.5 meters.

Landing seasons are different manipulations that are necessary to protect against various negative factors.

So, spring is fraught with unexpected frosts, which are replaced by an active sun. If the ground around the seedling is covered with black polyethylene, this will warm the soil and stimulate the development of the root system. The film also saves from the invasion of weeds and prevents abundant evaporation of moisture.

In addition to the film, use other protective equipment, such as covering material or plastic bottles, wrapped with paper. In particular, the latter are able to protect not only from frost, but also from aggressive sunlight.

During the autumn landing, such manipulations are not needed. The soil for the summer period has already received everything that it could, and now you just need to close the sapling with a half of a plastic bottle (you do not need to wrap paper).

Growing grapes has certain nuances that you need to know when caring for this crop.

As a rule, the first year reveals all weak and damaged plants, they die first. But if you take care of it incorrectly, then healthy seedlings will begin to wilt after them. Because you need to ensure the bushes regular watering, feeding, pruning and loosening.

The most difficult are the first three years. They determine the future activity of the vineyard.

The first watering is done at the beginning of the second decade after planting. It is better to do this in the evening and use the distilled water. Under each bush enough to pour from 2 to 3 buckets. If there will be no precipitation over the next two weeks, then watering should be repeated. All other water procedures are made only as needed. If the seedlings were planted under the film, then watering is limited to 1 time in three weeks to prevent dampness.

According to the general rules, watering grapes should be limited. Be sure to water young plants up to two years. In no case can not irrigate the vineyard during the budding of flowers, otherwise they fall off, and there will be no harvest. Adult bushes richly moisturize only in early autumn.

Loosening is necessary so that the earth allows air to flow to the roots. Also, this procedure helps to fight weeds and prevent the spread of pests. If the base of the seedling to impose hay, then often this is not necessary.

After heavy rains for 2-3 three days, it is imperative that the soil should be gnawed in order to destroy the crust formed.

Provided that the planting pit was formed according to the specified recommendations, it is not necessary to apply fertilizer in the first year.

Starting from the second year, and also if the composition of the soil is poor, young bushes are fed with mineral compositions. They are dissolved in water and watered as usual.

Pest management of the vineyard is shown in the morning or evening, preferably in calm weather. As a rule, spraying is carried out twice a year - in the fall and spring. For these purposes, the following drugs are most popular:

• Ridomil Gold;
• "Topaz";
• Neoron;
• "Bi-58".

The grapes are very "loved" by various pests, so in order not to lose the crop, you need to regularly treat the bushes with protective agents. The most dangerous insects are listed below.

Winegrowers consider it the most dangerous enemy of the vine. The spread of aphids is possible by any means: animals, wind, water or infected seedlings. The infection spreads massively and in some cases leads to the death of the entire crop. Gardeners in these cases create quarantine zones. Phylloxera is a small yellow-colored aphid. Habitat - the root system, occasionally appears on the leaves.

The larvae spoil the plants, which suck the sap from the roots, moving from one bush to another. At the puncture site, wounds are formed, into which infections and fungus fall, this is the cause of the death of the vine.

For prevention, the following rules should be followed:

1. If the region is predisposed to the appearance of a pest, then it is better to choose phylloxera resistant grapes. For example, “Anniversary of Moldova”, “Rkatsiteli”, “Sereksia”, “Amateur”.
2. Before planting a sapling, it must be treated with insecticides, completely immersing the cutting in the solution. For this purpose, use "Cabofos", "Bi-58" and others. Next, planting material during the day kept in a closed plastic bag at room temperature.
3. It is necessary to carry out the operation of katarovka, removing surface roots.
4. Non-resistant varieties must be processed by Fastak or Kinmiks. The solution can be prepared independently: 3 ml of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water. Spraying is made at the rate of a bucket of 100 square meters. Processing schemes are always in the instructions for the drugs. Preventive measures are carried out twice: the first - when blooming the kidneys of the second and third leaves, the second - after the appearance of the 9th sheet.

There are several types of these parasites: web, felt and leaf. None promises anything good to the bushes.

Grape spider mite appears with the first heat. As soon as the temperature stays at +15 degrees for several days, its larvae hatch, which in a week can feed on the pulp of the leaves, and in 2-3 weeks they will begin to multiply. Damaged foliage dries and the plant dies.

The itch, or felt mite, is so small that it is very difficult to see it. It feeds on juice, lives on the back of a leaf plate.Damaged areas are covered with a white lint, like felt. The plant can become infected either from neighboring bushes, or if poor quality planting material is used during planting.

The leaf variety of the grape mite is the smallest of all. It dwells in the kidneys, winters in them, and feeds on them. As a result, spring shoots hatch wrinkled, crooked. You can be deceived and take it for the consequences of frost.

All season should weed the plot, destroy weeds and infected shoots, in the fall the fallen leaves need to be burned.

As soon as the buds begin to gain strength, the bushes are better treated with a solution of lime and sulfur. And during the growing season to repel insects should be insecticides, sprinkling the leaves.

If traces of mites are still found, then you need to immediately treat the leaves with acaricides. The operation is carried out at least 2-3 times a week. Agronomists advise to use drugs "Bi-58", "Neoron", "Omayt" and others.

These are insects that at first glance seem to be beautiful moths fluttering over a vineyard. In fact, these are his terrible enemies. There are several types of leafworms:

1. Grape It is a chocolate-colored butterfly with two dark stripes and a wingspan of up to 3 cm. Its larvae, caterpillars, wake up with swelling of the kidneys and devour everything without parsing. They absolutely do not tolerate heat.
2. Two year old moths smaller than the previous one 2 times. The colors are brighter - yellow with a brown-black stripe, similar to a trapeze. Larvae are omnivores, so they can destroy almost the entire crop.
3. Grazy the species is the smallest, has a motley olive-brown color. Caterpillars, eating everything in their path, cling bunches of cobwebs. Winters in the bark.

You can fight pests. This requires the following set of activities:

• Before the buds swell, the bushes should be treated with Confidor, Decis, Fastak or Intavir solutions.
• destroy old or infected leaves and bark;
• during the budding period, flowers should be sprayed with insecticides “Rovikurt” (0.1% solution), “Fozalon” (0.2%), “Tsimbush”;
• if the leaves are damaged, then one month before the harvest, the bushes should be once again treated with Ekamet, Tokution or Metaphos.

This is a big moth with a wingspan of up to 10 cm gray-dirty color. Its larvae feed on the wood of fruit trees: apples, pears and others. If the supply becomes low, then they can go to the old vine. Caterpillars live and feed inside the trunk, gnawing out the core. One of the manifestations is the exfoliation of the bark and the holes in it.

Security measures:

• remove infected branches, cutting them below the site of damage, cut off the shoots are burned;
• an insecticide is injected into the holes and covered with clay;
• if you feed birds, woodpeckers, tits or rooks throughout the year, they will hunt pests, saving the vineyard from their invasion.

Pruning is done in the autumn after harvest. It can not be abandoned because it prevents the growth of the vine. If the vines start to run, they will become excessively thick, they will be ventilated badly, which will cause the appearance of various diseases and mold.

The first three years, remove only the unripe green shoots, leaving one central shoot. Tying up the vine, as well as pruning it, is necessary in order to set the correct direction of growth.

In order to keep the vine in winter, it is covered. For this, the plants are bent to the ground and pinned with special holders. On top of the design mulch.

Agronomists advise to cover plants with rodent repellents that can nibble bushes in winter.

Grapes are planted according to a specific pattern inherent in a particular variety, taking into account all the necessary distances between bushes and rows. A clear grouping by properties is necessary: ​​frost-resistant separately, early ripening separately, etc. Then the care of the bushes will be timely and competent, unnecessary manipulations are automatically excluded. It will be possible to facilitate care by reducing the effort on spraying and shelter.

Learn more about how to plant grapes, you will learn from the following video.

Any gardener, even if he is experienced, makes mistakes. Especially often they occur at the initial stage. Therefore, it is very important to avoid the most common mistakes by reading them in the reviews.

Here are some of them:

• Too deep landing entails slow growth. The soil in the lower layers of the landing pit is warming up poorly, so the growth slows down, respectively, the crop may not have time to ripen.
• Shallow landing pit will not allow the roots to extract enough nutrients from the soil, which will slow the growth of the vine. In addition, these plants can freeze in winter.

• Wrong location selected. Lack of sunlight affects the yield, because the sun is needed to set fruit.
• Incompatibility of regions. You cannot bring seedlings from the southern regions of the country for planting in the northern regions. They are not adapted to the weather conditions of the area, so either they will not take root, or they will not produce crops.
• Vines of different varieties planted next. Vigorous varieties will destroy others, closing their foliage from sunlight.
• Poor quality selection of planting material. If, before planting, weak or damaged seedlings are not rejected, they either will not take root, or will slowly develop, as a result of which the yield will be low.
• Purchase cuttings "with hands." PThe acquisition of material at non-specialized points or from private individuals is fraught with crop loss.
• The location of the landing trench on the north side of the buildings or near the trees. In this case, the vine will grow. Berries, if able to ripen, appear only on the topmost shoots.
• Untimely pruning of excess shoots will lead to a dense crown of the bush, as a result, mold, fungus or other diseases will appear. Shoots will fight for light and water, so the strength to ripen the crop is not enough.
• Lack of pollinating bushes. Agronomists advise to plant 1 pollinating on 6 fruit-bearing bushes, otherwise the variety crushes.

Each region has its own climatic features. This should be considered when planting grapes and subsequent care for them.

For example, in the suburbs bushes are planted in late April - early May, depending on weather conditions. The depth of the landing pit varies from 70 to 80 cm. In Siberia and the Ural region, the landing times are shifted by 2 weeks, and the trench depth increases from 10 to 15 centimeters.

The Far East is also distinguished by its requirements for planting and caring for a vineyard.

First, seedlings are planted only in the spring. The optimal period for this is the first decade of May, up to a maximum of the 15th. At this time in the taiga wild Amur grapes bloom. However, agronomists of Primorsky Krai advise to be more attentive, because for different regions the period can shift in one and the other direction. In the south, you can begin landing as early as the last week of April, and in the northern regions - only in the second half of May.

In the Far Eastern regions of our country, the most frost-resistant grape varieties are grown, the progenitor of many of which is the wild Amur species. You can list some of them:

• "Amur Breakthrough." One of the very first species bred from wild grapes.It has less black pigmentation and a larger berry, unlike the progenitor. The harvest is widely used not only for food, but also for the production of juice and wine.
• "Far Eastern Ramming". In the Khabarovsk Territory, the crop of this variety is harvested from 25 to 28 August. Small fruits have a black color and a pleasantly-sour taste, collected in small clusters in an amount of from 30 to 90 berries.
• "Taiga Emerald". Medium-sized yellow-green berries form tight, dense clusters weighing up to 100 grams. Crop harvested in September.
• "Alpha". The most frost-resistant type of grapes. Shrubs bear fruit well. Black berries are small cylindrical, have a sweet and sour taste.
• "Seaside". The variety is characterized by high sugar content - 17%, frost resistance and excellent yield. Vinogradinki black with abundant bloom, form small tight clusters. Shrubs are not sprawling, medium size.
• "Hassan Bous". Variety bred for the southern regions of Primorsky Krai. Characteristics allow him to winter in the clear. Small grapes form clusters of medium size, dense structure. Crop is removed from late August to early September. After ripening, the berries can be on the bush for a long time without falling off.

In addition, winegrowers bred special technical varieties for wine and juice making, such as Amethyst or Agatam.

The Leningrad Region can also now be proud of its grape harvests. Thanks to skillfully bred varieties, care for the crop has become less difficult. It became possible to grow them not only in heated calves, but also in open ground.

First of all, it is necessary to choose frost-resistant varieties with an early ripening period. Then the grapes have enough time for ripening. In the greenhouse, such species will yield 2-3 weeks earlier than in the open air.

Saplings adapted to the cold climate are also resistant to diseases. Gardeners recommend the following varieties for open planting for these latitudes:

• Aglaia. Unpretentious view with green berries of exquisite taste. The clusters are quite large, reaching a weight of up to half a kilogram.

• "Amur". One of the varieties of the Far Eastern variety. Top view, which is not afraid of neither cool Petersburg summer, nor early onset of winter. Ripens by mid-August. The berries are dark blue with some patina and dense skin, a bunch of small and not very dense. ???????

The best varieties for growing in greenhouses are the following:

• "Laura". Variety of table grapes. It has a sugary-sweet nutmeg taste. Pulp ripe berries dense and juicy. Large clusters are strong and dense, so that the fruits remain on the bushes even after ripening. One bunch can reach in weight up to 1 kilogram. The growing season is up to 120 days. One adult shrub can produce up to 40 kg of crop. The only problem is the susceptibility of the variety to powdery mildew, so you have to resort to chemical treatment.

• "Radiant". One of the varieties of raisins. Has large oblong fruits of a cylindrical form. Saturated sweet taste and lack of seeds attracts gardeners. Raisins are made from this variety.

If grape cuttings are purchased in the store, then professionals advise to pay attention to the following:

• Cut color. A properly prepared planting material is usually white or pale green.
• The number of kidneys. As a rule, the handle should have from 4 to 7 internodes.
• Condition of the kidneys. With proper storage, they are elastic and dense. If by easy pressing the bud disappears, then the cuttings are dry, that is, spoiled.
• Root system The white color of the roots in sections shows her health.

At home, for growing seedlings, you can use plastic bottles, of which there is now a great variety in every household. For these purposes, a narrow neck is cut off at the 1.5-liter capacity. The bottom must be riddled with an awl, creating a drainage system. Then the black earth is poured into the bottle at 3/4 of the total volume, and there is a hole for the cutting in it that needs to be watered. Sapling falls into the hole and covered with sand. After this, the container is closed with the cut off upper part. This mini greenhouse should be kept closed until the plant begins to rest on the "roof".

Breeders brought different grape varieties, adapted for any region. Therefore, before planting, it is worthwhile to carefully read the information in order to choose the right type suitable for the climate in the selected area.

For the southern territories of our country, agronomists offer to pay attention to the following varieties: "Bogatyrsky", "East", "Golden-resistant", "Viruil-59".

Areas of a temperate climate will suit Lydia Rose, Pearlina Saba or Dove. “Harold” and “White Miracle” are cold-resistant grape species.

For the Siberian region, breeders have developed a separate class with optimal characteristics for this area: “Buratino”, “Bashkir”, “Mystery of Sharov”.

For a good harvest, the main thing is to correctly calculate the time of planting seedlings. To protect the sprouts from unexpected frosts, you need to cover each seedling with a plastic bottle and cover the entire area with a covering material. Protection can only be removed when the root system becomes strong. It’s impossible to keep the vineyard under cover all the time, because it will not harden and freeze in winter.

Stationary support - trellis, experienced gardeners recommends installing immediately when laying the vineyard. Bushes grow very quickly, for a year the vine grows to a meter and more.

Beginners are advised to opt for frost-resistant varieties. They are more resistant to misfortunes of various kinds, ranging from frosts to diseases and pests. The main thing is to understand for what purposes the grapes are grown: for food, juice, winemaking or as a decor.

General rules of planting recommended by experienced growers:

• The main thing - to choose the right ground. Best for grape rocky black soil.
• It is important to know the depth of groundwater in order to properly organize the drainage system. The minimum limit is 1.5 meters from the surface.
• Timely fertilizing with mineral fertilizers and watering - the key to success.
• Properly designed layout of grape bushes on the plot helps to get a good harvest, because each plant will receive a sufficient amount of heat, light and space.
• It is necessary to observe the distance between the bushes, as well as from the vine to the nearest buildings and trees.