Where is it better to plant grapes on the site?

Growing grapes is becoming increasingly popular among summer residents and gardeners.But in order to get a good harvest, and not just to work out all summer in the fresh air, you should carefully consider the choice of the site. Otherwise, even the most ideal variety in favorable weather does not meet expectations.

Often you can hear that the bushes with delicious berries are not too demanding to the conditions of growth. Indeed, they can adapt to almost any climatic parameters within the normal range.

It would be best to plant the grapes on the plot or in the garden on the south side, where the house itself is located. The south facing wall warms up thoroughly during the day, which means that the risk of night frosts is reduced. The northern orientation and all places where winds often blow are categorically unacceptable. This will lead to the freezing of the culture and the loss of its valuable qualities to it, in the worst case, the bushes will die altogether. When choosing a place to land in the country, it should also be taken into account that both insufficient and too high humidity are dangerous.

The question - in the shade or in the sun to plant grapes - is not worth it. If it is not possible to use the south of the plot, a sufficiently light western segment will suit it. In any case, it is unacceptable to bring the bushes closer to tall trees, which create a thick shadow. Along with the main house, protection from the wind in the cold season is also provided by the outbuildings. But such a cover turns out to be less perfect and is suitable only as a last resort.

It is not always useful in chemical composition, and often simply decomposes the roots of vines. With regard to the properties of the soil, it is best suited rocky soil, rich in nutrients: it is minimal risk of stagnant water, salt accumulation and lime.

Begin placement of seedlings relies from north to south. This procedure will ensure uniform ripening of the vine and the harvest in about the same time. The gap between seedlings is maintained at least 3 m, and then - for the bushes with weak growth. If they are strong, the distance increases to at least 4 meters. The territory need not just to choose, it needs to be prepared:

• width and depth of the pit for planting - 0.5 m;
• organic fertilizer is poured into the recess and sand is added;
• compaction produced to obtain a structure like clay;
• after compaction, re-saturate the earth with another portion of organic matter and sprinkle the top with fertile soil.

The thickness of the bed of fertile soil is about 0.4 m. According to professionals, a deeper planting is impractical. Both excessive deepening and raising a plant can impair its protection from the cold.

It is worth paying attention to the selection of seed, because not all seedlings can easily take root (or take root at all) in certain climatic zones. The best seedlings of grapes - two years of age.

Treating plants involves removing any deformed roots, including their branches going up. You can leave only the lower nodes. Since the depth of landing is limited to 0.4 m, side shoots should be cut off mercilessly. They can interfere with the location of the plant at a certain depth. Important: the device of the fossa must be such that the root system does not bend upwards.

At ½ the total depth of the seedling overlaps with a layer of earth, which certainly must be compacted. Then it is shed 30 liters of water, and after the liquid is absorbed, the missing soil is poured. The highest point on the root should be 50 mm higher than the edge of the pit.This is a condition of protection against frost and the possibility of normal development.

If gardeners have unblown grapes, the planting can be carried out from the beginning of April, as soon as the ground gets warmer than 10 degrees. After the formation of flowers, you can plant it exclusively in May to prevent freezing.

Before planting, the plants are hardened for 4 days in a row. Hardening is performed by placing on an open area, but only one where there will be no drafts. They can be fatal for a sapling. Young bushes can be planted in spring or autumn. The ideal moment for lignified annual trunks comes from the end of April and lasts until mid-May. Plants with green shoots are recommended to be transferred to free ground in the last days of May and during June. Allowed periods are long enough to not worry about inappropriate weather at some point. It is better to wait several days or even 1, 2 weeks, rather than face problems.

Grape seedlings of varying degrees of readiness can be used in both small and large gardens. This determines the particular preparation of the place for her. Ligneous bush is placed in a pit with a width and a depth of 0.8x0.8 m. Preliminary:

• lay a nutrient layer of 0.25 m on the bottom (when preparing it, humus and fertile soil are mixed);
• tamped down the filled mass and cover with a combination of 0.3 kg of potash fertilizers and the same amount of superphosphate in combination with 3 kg of wood ash and soil (thickness of spillage is 100 mm);
• put clean soil at 50 mm depth;
• check if a groove remains of approximately 0.4 m;
• make a mound in the middle of the groove.

The embankment is designed to accommodate a sapling. Roots distribute uniformly and add ground until the level of growth is reached. When the seedling is installed, and all layers are again rammed, it is necessary to pour water on the ground. As soon as it is partially dry, it is easy to loosen 100 mm deep. If it is planned to use vegetative saplings, then on chernozem and clay the prepared pit should be up to 0.25 m deep, and on the sand - only 0.2 m at all.

The same layers as in the previous description, compacted and shed water (20-40 liters) every week. Waiting for shrinkage of the soil mass, form a notch. For chernozem and clay it should be 0.55 m, and for sand rock - 0.65 m. Having introduced a seedling, it is poured with a fertile mass, strengthen it and pour 10 l of water. Next, a small stake is placed near the germ to help support it.

It is important to know the following.

• If you have to plant grapes that have not passed acclimatization, then you need to create a moderate shadow. Plywood sheets are put on the chosen place or tree branches are instilled. They should cover the landing site from the south for about 10 days until the shrub grows stronger.
• It is recommended to avoid places with high levels of soil water. If for some reason you have to plant grapes there, you will have to take care of drainage (the critical level of groundwater is 150 cm).

• Despite the fact that different sources speak about the thermal support of grape thickets by buildings, it is still necessary to maintain a distance of 500-700 mm.
• If you plant the grapes on the north side or close to the trees and walls, it will spend the main energy for development. Thus, only a meager harvest can be obtained, and then only on the upper branches.
• Too small planting pits deprive saplings of a significant amount of useful substances and inhibits development.If you bury the roots too deep, they will feel bad, as it is very cold there.
• Acid for grapes optimal soil from 4 to 8 points. On excessively acidic soil, even rich in minerals, bushes will get them too little and slowly. If there is no choice on the site, it is necessary to introduce lime, forcibly lowering the acidity. For table varieties it is very good to use areas composed of rubble and sand.
• Each technical (wine) variety has specific preferences that cannot be ignored.
• Responsible gardeners are trying to remove the planting of grapes from roads, even from driveways inside a block or a holiday village. And ideally, it is worthwhile to move away from your own garage, the entrance to the plot. This will make the crop safer for health.

The last (but not least) point worth mentioning is the chemical composition of the soil. Where there is a lot of potassium, grape bushes survive the frost easier, grow faster. The lack of this trace element makes the berries less sweet than usual. Iron deficiency can affect photosynthesis, as well as an insufficient amount of magnesium. As for nitrogen and calcium, these elements should be present, but in strictly defined limits, no more and no less.

About where it is better to plant grapes on the plot, see the following video.