Features of cultivation of mulberry varieties in the Moscow region

In the southern regions of Russia, you can often find a beautiful spreading tree covered with berries - mulberry, or, as it is also called, mulberry tree. Multicolored (black, red and white shades) berries are pleasant to the taste, there are always a lot of kids around such trees. And adults often cannot pass by in order not to feast on these southern gifts of nature.

The plant reaches a height of 15 m, gives abundant yields, has good wood, and its fruits contain many useful substances for the human body. It is not surprising that gardeners in the central and northern regions have long been interested in this southern plant, and breeders were faced with the task of growing varieties adapted to the weather conditions of a cool climate.

Varieties bred for the northern regions are adapted to long frosty winters, short summers and short light days. They can withstand temperatures up to -30 degrees. However, this applies only to certain varieties, which will be discussed below.

The species bred for a cold climate reach a height of no more than 3-4 meters. But this is quite enough to block the sun's rays, so they are planted away from gardens and windows.

A full crop of mulberry can be harvested as early as 3-4 years after planting. Fruits of a mulberry represent berries of black, white or red color. Interestingly, from a biological point of view, these berries, similar to blackberries, are classified as nuts.

1. When purchasing a sapling, you should remember that it is better to take a plant bred in the area where it will grow in the future. It makes no sense to carry mulberry saplings from the south - they will not be able to spend the winter, let alone bear fruit.
2. When buying, it is better to take a plant on which there is one or two berries, to make sure that the seedling is not male. Only such a plant will produce good yields in the future.
3. Be sure to clarify whether this mulberry is self-pollinating. Otherwise pollinator is required.
4. The best option would be the purchase of mulberry in local nurseries, where there is confidence that the mulberry has passed acclimatization, is not infected with tree diseases, will tolerate planting well, has cold resistance and self-fertility.

If there is an opportunity to get acquainted in detail with the features of the proposed varieties, then you should definitely use it. Mulberry classification is made not by the color of the berries, but by the color of the bark, but for gardeners it will still be more convenient and more practical to choose the berry shade.

As for berry shades, the varieties described below are suitable for the climate of the Moscow region.

• White. Ideal for growing in cool regions. Here you can mark varieties "Darkie" and "White Honey." This is an adapted species. Withstand low temperatures, unpretentious to the soil. The berries are sweet, light beige, reach a length of 4 cm. The varieties are characterized by abundant crops throughout the season, the trees are self-pollinating.
• Red These are “Vladimirskaya” (fruits of red color), “Smolensk pink”. Tall trees, reaching a height of 5 m. Crohn spreading, with many shoots. Self-protected and frost-resistant. The berries are quite large - 3 cm.
• Black. The most enduring are the Black Baroness, The Black Prince, Ukrainian-6. Undemanding to soil, frost resistant. Partially self-bearing, it is therefore recommended to plant them with other pollinator varieties.

Among the derived adapted varieties there are many other names.

There are several ways of breeding mulberry.

• Seeds. This method is used by breeders to subsequently develop new varieties. Seed propagation in the long term - before planting in open ground, 2-2.5 years pass.
• Cuttings. The method allows you to get a powerful root system, but requires too much effort.
• Saplings This is the most common type of breeding in the suburban and garden plots. Sapling grown in the local nursery, has been acclimatized, has grown enough. At this age, the plants can already determine whether the tree will bear fruit in the future.

As with the planting of any culture, first of all it is necessary to determine the place on the site. We must not forget that the tree will grow large and spreading. Even undersized varieties will block smaller plants from light.

The best option for planting would be the sunny south side of the plot, near the blank wall of the house or building. So the tree will receive the maximum amount of light, and the walls will block it from the winter winds and blizzards.

Many varieties of mulberry are unpretentious to the soil, but are best adapted to loam. In sandy eroded soils under the root system, it is recommended to lay out the drainage of small stones, gravel, broken bricks. When planting in any soil add mineral fertilizers.

Mulberry comes from the south, so it tolerates drought well, but swampy soil is destructive for it. The same applies to the lowlands, where rainwater accumulates, spring floods occur.

The distance between the planting of trees or from high fences (walls, fences) must be at least 3 meters if the tree is a bushy species. Standard high form requires up to 5 free meters.

For seedlings in the climate near Moscow, the most favorable planting period is spring. The plant will have a warm season ahead in order to take root well and endure the next winter without serious consequences. Plant need to plant in April to have time before the start of sap flow.

If necessary, you can land in the fall, long before the start of frost. But in this case, the tree does not have time to properly acquire bark. Autumn planting involves further harboring the seedling with insulation material.

Landing is done in several stages.

• Preparation of the pit. A pit is dug up to half a meter in diameter, about a meter in diameter. The foundation pit is standing for several days.
• On the day of planting at the bottom of the pit, several layers of previously prepared material are laid out, which will provide the plant with fast rooting.
  • The first layer to fall asleep: drainage, if the soil is too light and prone to erosion; peat, if the soil is heavy; compost or humus at the rate of 1 bucket in 1 pit.
  • The soil resulting from the excavation of the pit, mixed with granular mineral fertilizers. One handful is enough for planting a single tree.

• A sapling is lowered into the pit, carefully straightening and unfolding the roots so that they lie freely. Sprinkle with soil slightly above the root collar. This will provide better survival during frosts.
• Having well tamped down the soil, the seedling is fixed in a vertical position with a peg. Mulch the soil around the plant with sawdust or needles.

If the planting was spring, under the sapling in the first half of summer fertilizers are applied, provide systematic watering. From mid-July, feeding is stopped, and the frequency of irrigation is minimized so that the earth does not dry out in the hot summer. In the first season, the young plant also needs weeding and loosening in order to provide oxygen access to the roots and prevent the weeds from depriving the still weak bush of light and nutrients.

In the autumn, the near-stem circle is mulched with sawdust, foliage, needles or straw. Side branches gently pressed to the ground and covered with insulating material. Autumn warming is carried out for seedlings planted in the winter.

In the spring, the covering material is removed from the plant, the old mulch is removed, and the earth is loosened, providing an influx of oxygen. Frozen shoots pruned - in their place will quickly appear new twigs.

Preparing for winter also includes fertilizing with an adult plant. Autumn dressing will benefit the roots, and thanks to the upcoming winter season, the plant will not throw out new shoots. For dressing use a weak solution of manure, ash, nitrogen and potassium.

The mulberry tree develops intensively in the first few years, gaining a branchy mass and height of the trunk, depending on the type of plant. After wintering 2 seasons, the tree is considered an adult, he is no longer afraid of further winters. In the third or fourth year, the mulberry will begin to bear fruit and continue to grow.

The formation of the crown, of course, depends on the preferences of the gardener, but for the plant itself and for the aesthetics of the dacha, it is advisable to care for the mulberry tree by trimming the extra branches. Spring is obligatory anti-aging pruning. Removed frozen dry or blackened twigs. April - the beginning of May, while the plant has not yet fully awakened, is considered to be a suitable period for pruning.

In the bushy species of mulberry, they thin out and shorten the branches, and in the standard ones, they remove the growing shoots, leaving the trunk and forming the crown at their discretion. The height and decorative formation of the crown depends on the gardener's preferences; it can be made in any form. So, on home gardens where tall plants are undesirable, the mulberry is pinched at the top of a head at a height of two meters or the top shoots are pruned.

With the important tips on planting a mulberry and caring for it you can see in the next video.

The causes of diseases of fruit plants are diverse and depend on many factors. Faced with a similar problem, it is necessary to study the appearance of the damaged area and refer to a detailed description of treatment and prevention. Of the most common fungal diseases of the mulberry tree, there are several.

• Brown spotting. This fungal disease is characterized by spots on the leaves of the corresponding color. For the treatment of used lime powder with the addition of sulfur.
• Mealy dew. A light fungal patina appears first on the leaves, and then spreads to the entire branch and berries. The tree should be sprayed with lime-sulfur solution. It is advisable to carry out prevention in the spring and autumn.
• Stinger Spores of the fungus multiply on the bark of the tree, turning it into dust in time. Under the bark the fungus penetrates through open injuries of the trunk. The damaged area of ​​the bark is cut and burned, and the “wound” is treated with copper sulfate solution.

Mulberry diseases are also promoted by insect pests. There are three frequent mulberry satellites.

• White butterfly Lays a huge number of eggs, which later become caterpillars. Caterpillars devour the foliage and entangle the shoots with dense web. To combat used mechanical method (pruning spider nests) and chemical (spraying chlorophos).
• Mulberry moth. The abundance of caterpillars on the tree can destroy the entire crop before it appears. For prevention and treatment using the same methods as with the white butterfly.
• Spider mite A thin web appears on the lower part of the leaves, which subsequently leads to darkening of the foliage and premature shedding. The diseased plant is sprayed with thiophos solution.