The subtleties of the process of growing radish

Each plant, whether wild or cultural, has its own specifics. This should be remembered and gardeners, who decided to try their hand at growing radish.Moreover, familiarizing yourself with the basic requirements does not prevent experienced gardeners if they want to understand the reasons for failure.

Vernalization of radish, depending on the variety, requires a temperature not lower than 4 and not higher than 20 degrees Celsius. In this corridor, it must be kept at least 10 to 20 days. If there is a long cooling, especially on the background of a long daylight hours, the appearance of peduncles is likely in the absence of roots. Sowing in early spring with careful observance of the norms of agrotechnology, even if the temperature is low, allows to exclude the occurrence of such a problem But the crop planted in the summer bloom very quickly.

If you sow it in the fall, you can achieve large (for a particular variety) fruits without flower stalks. You should not be afraid of late sowing, because the seeds can germinate already at a temperature of air of 3-4 degrees. But it is better to focus on heating at least up to 15-16 degrees. The plant that had time to throw out the seedlings will survive weak negative temperatures, for an adult radish even a frost of 5-6 degrees is not dangerous. Heated to 25 degrees the ground allows you to get the roots about 20 days after germination.

Sowing radishes in the soil, the temperature of which varies from 15 to 18 degrees, you can expect to get a technically ripe crop for 30-35 days. The danger is a strong heat and low humidity of the earth, air (especially when these factors reinforce each other). In such situations, the quality of the crop decreases, and an arrow may appear prematurely.

The best ratio of the growth rate of green mass and the fruit is achieved with daily illumination for 10-12 hours. And if daylight hours are short, it helps to keep technically mature fruits in the ground. Lighting in November and December is not enough for the formation of root crops, even zoned varieties.

Radish has significant land requirements. The presence of a large amount of humus and available for the absorption of useful substances is crucial. Light soils contribute to the appearance of flabby, tangy root vegetables. If the earth is strong and viscous, to get a crop without deformation will not work. Are not indifferent and feeding, which must necessarily be carried out in a plant accessible form. The lack of moisture leads to the fact that the root becomes like a tree, turns out to be flabby and bitter; in advanced cases, instead of reaching technical maturity, he throws out the stems.

For all the importance of the common botanical and agronomical features of radish, special attention should be paid to the specifics of the variety. This vegetable grows first not only in its family; only very few cultivated plants are able to equal him in part of the early shoots. The European group of varieties is the same one to which gardeners of Russia and neighboring states are used to. On average, a month is given for the growing season. The received fruits can reach 30 g.

The Chinese group "Lobu" was developed by breeders of the People's Republic of China and Mongolia. This selection of varieties has a wide variety. In appearance, they are usually lighter than European ones, although the expected “red balls” can also be obtained. The cultivation period is about 50 days, up to 10 leaves can be plugged into the outlet. Extended growth time pays off with a significantly larger mass. The most common thing for the Chinese group of varieties is a root crop weighing about 0.2 kg.

As for the Japanese "Daikon", as well as the Indian "Mulu" - this is just an adaptation of the Chinese radish. Siberians and Urals should be given preference to early-maturing varieties:

• Zarya;
• "Ilka";
• "Deca";
• "Option".

Naturally, the desire of many gardeners to get a large fruit part. Especially for them, the "Red Giant", "Slavia". Valuable quality - no arrows.In principle, they are not given varieties "Rhodes", "Corsair", "18 days".

But fans of horticultural innovations should pay attention to the "Duro", "Alex" and "Zlata". Farmers who have already tried these crops in business note a combination of excellent taste and excellent preservation.

When cultivating radish, it is no less important than when selecting a variety, to know how many days this or that plant sprouts. This allows both to avoid vain expectations, and to prepare in advance for all the work, to plan them clearly on the calendar. Landing in the same place where lovingly warm cultures will later be planted is quite acceptable. This approach is used by gardeners who want to remove radishes in the spring and free the ridges for the next plant.

But the majority of consumers want to enjoy root vegetables all season. In this case, planting is done every 7-10 days, with the exception of June. The fact is that the June crops almost inevitably give an arrow due to the very long daylight hours. In the summer, it is necessary to sow only late varieties that are less prone to shooters.

But even the nicest site and the right choice of planting time does not mean that gardeners have done everything they can. Radish seeds are able to remain viable for a long time and almost do not require special manipulations. However, it is unacceptable to produce sowing without calibration. The distribution of the value produced in a weak salt solution. For sowing, those seeds that go to the bottom are best suited. It is recommended to take seed only in specialized outlets.

Aging in warm water or wet matter before planting lasts 24 hours. In the last 20 minutes before sowing, seeds are soaked in hot (not boiling, of course) water, which reduces the risk of infectious diseases. After cooling the seed in the open air, it is supplemented with microelements and dried well.

Cultivation of radish is possible only in well-cultivated land. This culture requires a loose, nutrient-rich soil. Quality drainage is also important. The best variation of acidity varies from 5.5 to 7. It is advisable to choose a warm and not subject to strong winds place.

Insolation is also important. Very well, if earlier on the same land grew:

• solanaceous;
• peppers;
• legumes;
• cucumbers.

But the cultivation of radish itself in the same area for more than 3 years in a row can undermine the productive forces of the soil. It is recommended every year to assign a new place for him in the garden, because it improves the quality of crop rotation. Land preparation is done in the autumn months. It is unacceptable to leave on the surface or in the depth of the remnants of vegetation. In addition to digging and removing weeds, excess organic matter, humus or compost must be introduced.

Re-digging is carried out in the spring immediately after thawing of the soil, it is combined with the introduction of mineral compounds. It is best to grow radishes obtained by shallow embedding of seeds deep into the ground. The bed is leveled, the sowing furrows are laid out on it. The distance between these lanes should be kept at exactly 0.1 m. The landing grooves should be filled with hot water in advance.

The distance recommended between individual saplings is 50 mm. Excessively thick sowing is obviously an inappropriate method. He does not add any yield or vitality to the plant, but he adds hassle on the subsequent dilution.But the powder earth, which is thoroughly compacted, promotes germination in a shorter time. Planted radishes are immediately watered and fed with wood ash. Wait for germination, if the weather meets the requirements, it is worth 3-4 days.

The cultivation of radish in eggs from under the eggs has become quite widespread. This technique perfectly manifested itself in thousands of gardens in various areas. It allows you to achieve beautiful geometry of the vegetable and at the same time eliminate the need for thinning. Pre-soil will have to be leveled, and for cells, cut the bottom with a knife; Laying on the ground should be a hole down, with a slight pressure. In the ground-filled improvised wells put strictly 1 seed.

The radishes sown this way are also covered with soil and watered. The use of egg cells does not affect the quality of seedlings and the rate of their appearance. But on the other hand, they allow us to extremely simplify the provision of a given seating scheme. If you decide not to transplant radishes in the garden, and get a harvest on the balcony or on the windowsill in the apartment, nothing extraordinarily difficult in this. A suitable area for the apartment should be at the same time warm and with good lighting. When ripening seedlings thermal regime toughen.

Not bad reviews have a method of growing radish in boxes with pallets. The width of the boxes themselves and their pallets should be equal to the width of the window sills, and the ideal height should be about 0.15 m. Very high boxes will only create an extra load on the base. The soil is backfilled by a maximum of 2/3, be sure to leave a reserve to supplement if necessary. Another option is plastic containers that have drainage holes (with a cell size of at least 50x50 mm).

Plastic cups may also be suitable. But they will have to do the drainage canals with their own hands. Still need to install glasses on pallets. As for the land, the simplest solution would be to buy ready-made soil in the store. As a replacement it will be served by a self-formed substrate, which will include:

• 10 kg of fertile land;
• 100 g wood ash;
• crushed shell;
• equal volumes of dacha soil, aged for 2-3 years (but not fresh!) of humus, river sand;
• a mixture of land with peat.

When filling containers to the top edge, 10-20 mm of unoccupied space should remain. This consideration will allow more accurately calculate the total weight of the components used and the amount of each of them. Mineral fertilizer helps to increase yield and accelerate the release of shoots. Oriented in determining the need for additives can be on the instructions on their packaging.

The soil for the home cultivation of radish is moistened with water, with the help of a stick, recesses are made in it. Preparing one indentation per cell or glass. For a box, the number of cavities is 1 per square 50x50 or 60x60 mm with a depth of 15-20 mm. The introduction of seeds with tweezers is the most practical and easy. After backfilling of the substrate, the surface is additionally wetted with water from a spray bottle.

A container covered with glass or polyethylene protection is transferred to a place where a stable temperature of 18-20 degrees is ensured. Such conditions should be maintained until the first green is pecked. To remove the film and transfer the radish to a cool place you need for 3-4 days. After such hardening, it is required to return the plant to a comfortable environment.

If possible, it is worth growing radishes where the temperature is not higher than 15 degrees. If containers are placed in a lighted space, it should be removed from the radiators. When overheated, the decorative qualities of radish are fully manifested, but it will no longer be possible to rely on the crop of root crops. When initially the soil is selected according to all the rules, additional feeding of home culture is almost not needed.The deadline for obtaining fruits with the observance of agrotechnics will not exceed 20 days.

Providing care for radish, which grows in a greenhouse or in the open field is much more difficult than maintaining optimal conditions in the house. On the 5-6 day after the release of greens, the vegetable will certainly thin out. Watering should not be on schedule, but strictly with the actual lack of water. Each watering immediately goes into loosening. The recommended form of dressings is nitrogen based.

To care for the radish properly is to water it in the morning and evening. Especially important is the timely flow of water when steady heat. The overdried vegetable gives a coarse hollow root crop, since the main force will go to the arrows. On hot days, weekly watering is increased to 10 liters per 1 square meter. m

Although radish has a bitter taste, yet many insects ignore it and eat parts of the plant in cold blood. It takes once a week or even a little more often to inspect the garden, in order to notice in time when problem plants appeared in the garden. In many cases, timely noticed infection can be eliminated without the use of toxic reagents. Like all root crops, radish accumulates the substances with which gardeners process it. The fight begins before planting, at the stage of seed preparation.

Plant immunity is enhanced by treatment with biological stimulants. If you are not satisfied with store compositions, you can process the seed:

• succinic acid;
• honey
• aloe juice

It is advisable to avoid an excessive concentration of nitrogen in the ground, since it depletes the strength of the plant. In addition, nitrogen overdose boosts leaf development and lowers the yield of root crops. There are no diseases specific for radish, the main danger for it is represented by those microorganisms that infect any garden greens. But among them, pathogens characteristic of cruciferous crops are most often infected with radishes. The so-called "white rust" most of all affects young plants.

The disease develops at temperatures of about 15 degrees, especially against the backdrop of wet weather and fog. Initially, the outer side of the leaves is covered with light green spots. In the affected areas, plant tissues are thicker than usual, but gradually they degrade and collapse. On the reverse side, something like boils appears. When they burst, you can see white bloom with an oily sheen.

If the fruit and have time to ripen, they will be covered with growths. It makes sense to do something with folk remedies only in the early stages of the development of the disease. For more serious infections, fungicides are required. Prevention is carried out about once a week, and when it rains constantly, it becomes more frequent. A solution of potassium permanganate can prevent white rust.

Kila is another dangerous cruciferous ailment. Even in the most "favorable" case, 50% of the collection is lost. Worst of all, the fungus is extremely stable and difficult to remove. If the disease appeared on a certain bed, there it will not be possible to grow potentially infected crops from 8 to 10 years. After the end of the incubation period, the stem turns yellow and leaves dry.

The treachery of the keel is due to the fact that it develops more actively both from excessive watering and from drying out radish. We'll have to very accurately dispense the flow of water, not deviating to either the larger or the smaller side. Such provoking factor as heat is more than 25 degrees does not depend on gardeners in any way. But at least they can eliminate planting radishes on heavy soils or cope with excessive acidity of the soil.

Radish mosaic is the most dangerous viral disorder; like Kila, there is no medicine for it. Affected plants develop extremely slowly, there is a decrease in the size of the foliage.Geometry of foci of infection will tell a lot about the type of virus. Later, the affected areas will die off, and the veins will become too dark. There is only one method of dealing with mosaic - weeding sick plants and burning them.

The most serious pests of radish are:

• whitefish;
• cruciferous flea;
• rapeseed flower eater;
• fly and mole cabbage species.

Radish is relatively unpretentious, not only in the garden. It can be stored and, importantly, simple conditions are required for this. Even outdoors in a room, a vegetable will save its culinary qualities as much as in refrigerators. Root crops that are stored together with the green part should be moistened periodically (water from the foliage will pass through all tissues). Packages in the refrigerator or open up, or pierced in several places.

On the super method of vyrvshivaniya radish, see the following video.