Why does radish go to the tops?

Radish is rightfully one of the main occupants of the garden.Its fruits are full of vitamins, it is unpretentious to the conditions of the external environment and the whole process of its cultivation is described in several words: planting, watering and harvesting. But you can often hear from gardeners, gardeners about the presence of various problems - the fruits turn yellow, then bitter or they, in general, do not. It is worth considering the main reasons why radishes can go to the tops, some nuances of caring for them and most often problems arising during cultivation.

Radishes can be planted anywhere, be it a pot of soil in the house or a garden bed on the street. It can even grow in space, humanity has the experience of growing it even on the ISS. Its unpretentiousness allows you to get a good harvest, observing a minimum of conditions relating to the characteristics of care, soil selection, light and planting density. When planting radishes in the soil, it is important to know its acidity. Landing in a soil rich in alkalis, will lead to inhibition of its development, and will be accompanied by yellowing on its leaves.

One of the most accessible indicators of soil acidity is table beet, which is manifested in the following:

• if its leaves are bright red - this is an indicator of high acidity;
• if the leaves have a natural green color with red streaks, this is a signal of low acidity;
• pronounced green color in combination with red roots indicate neutral ground.

If there was no place for beets in the garden, ordinary vinegar can help. The method is very simple - one tablespoon of vinegar is poured onto a cooked handful of earth, after which there are such developments as:

• if a significant amount of foam is formed, it means that the level of acidity is high;
• if there is little foam, the soil is chemically neutral;
• the lack of foam indicates a strong acidification.

At high acidity dolomite flour or lime is added to the ground during digging, the proportions being 300 g / sq. m. Peat, manure, humus, various fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus can also increase productivity. On 1 square. The following amount of fertilizer is added to the soil meter:

• 40 g of superphosphate;
• 15 g of potassium salt;
• 10 kg of humus.

Having dealt with the issues of preparing the soil for planting, it is necessary to pay attention to the issues of light and planting. When planting radish, the length of daylight should not exceed twelve hours, so it is recommended to plant in August or May. It is important that the air temperature was not lower than + 10– + 15 degrees, in which case it will be possible to harvest in 25–30 days. For example, in the middle zone of our country, by mid-April, the length of the day can reach fourteen hours, and by mid-May it can exceed sixteen.

To avoid premature flowering of plants, shoots should be closed daily for 2-3 weeks with opaque material in the interval from eighteen to twenty o'clock in the evening, and from six to eight in the morning. With such care you can grow healthy and large root vegetables.

It follows from the above that carrying out sowing works in the summer allows the plants to develop intensively and actively form flowering shoots, but very often the root crop itself is not formed at all. He is not afraid of cold; he tolerates night temperature drops very well.

Planting seeds in mid-May or early June will lead to unnecessary raskolovaniyu radish, which is explained by the long light day.The area of ​​land on which the sapling is planted should be well lit, otherwise the radish may not bring the harvest. Seedlings should not be placed too close to each other.

There is a way that allows you to simplify the landing process and save wonderful spring evenings. In order not to engage in thinning of the seedlings, it is worth making the workings in the form of seeds glued on thin strips of loose paper before sowing. To do this, follow these steps:

• first, paper is smeared with paste at short intervals of five centimeters;
• tweezers or a toothpick grain gently laid out on glue;
• for the sake of convenience and ease of transportation, the strips can be neatly rolled into rolls.

Having dealt with the landing, you need to do the actual cultivation. Gardening work requires special care, because an unsuccessful weeding or loosening can disrupt the fragile integrity of the roots, due to which the plant will go to the arrow. It is necessary to loosen the soil, in every possible way to prevent the formation of a soil crust, and also to destroy weeds in a timely manner. Loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 2–3 cm, and when the radish grows a little, it can be loosened to a depth of 5–6 cm. To radishes do not go into the greens, it must be thinned.

Radishes consume a lot of water, so in the absence of the possibility of regular watering it is better not to plant them at all. Watering is recommended twice a day. Radish is watered in 2-3 approaches, the best is for this watering can with a small sieve. The most favorable time for watering is the evening. Watering is best done with warm, heated water under the sun.

A lack of moisture can lead to a non-binding root crop, or the shoot will go as an arrow, or it will be fibrous and unbearably bitter. To get a good and rich harvest, it is necessary to collect it in a timely manner. Harvesting occurs as the radish root increases.

If the radish had a head, then most often it hurt because of its main enemy, the cruciferous flea. This insect can destroy the seedlings in a day, nullifying all the efforts of the gardener. In order to avoid irreparable damage, the beds should be sprinkled with ashes. After that, they should be covered with a hermetic material and not removed until the radish leaves are fully ripe. When ripe, the leaves will harden and become less desirable for insects.

The gardener has a headache if the radish has gone to the arrow. In this case, its taste is greatly reduced, it becomes fresh and not very good. It happens that the radish tuber has not grown at all, only the bush of grass proudly towers above the garden bed. If this happens, you should not rush to throw it away - you can make a good salad out of radish leaves. Basically, these problems arise in case of violation of the landing procedure and ignoring the nuances from the previous section.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the consequences of wrong actions. For example, violation of the light mode can completely deprive the crop. If the radish grows at home, it will need several times more light than in natural conditions, but at the same time, the lighting period should be shorter during the day, no more than 7–9 hours, the rest is night. If the radish is planted in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall. Radish interacts very poorly with organic fertilizers.

A small life hack based on experience: if you plant it on the place where cabbage or radish grew last season, then, most likely, there will be no harvest at all. At the same time, many people notice an excellent yield of radish if it was planted on a place where tomatoes were recently grown.

For the winter, radishes are planted for the sole purpose of getting fresh vegetables on the table as early as possible. Using this method of planting virtually eliminates the possibility of leaving the radish in the tops or arrow, the main thing is to observe all the nuances of the planting procedure. This radish is much less susceptible to disease, and also tolerates frost well. In winter, the seeds are hardened: weak seeds die, while strong ones have time to germinate and give a good harvest. In the spring, seeds get access to a large amount of melted water, which allows to stimulate the growth of tubers.

The main thing is not to make mistakes with the landing dates, otherwise they will germinate ahead of time and freeze. Depending on the climate of the landing region, it is possible to designate the landing period as the middle or beginning of the second half of October. Seeds are laid exclusively on slightly frozen ground at the very beginning of winter. With the arrival of frosts in the grooves, seeds are sown, which are sprinkled with warm soil prepared in advance from the garden or purchased in the store for 1.5–2 cm. The bed is covered with mulch or leaves, in a thick layer of 4–5 centimeters.

Despite the fact that planting radishes for the winter is a rather risky exercise, it is quite realizable. The main risks here are not even the seeding itself, but the preparation for it and the selection of the most successful period for disembarkation. The best types of planting for this method are the following types of varieties:

• "Heat";
• Carmen;
• Zarya;
• "Lighthouse";
• "Anniversary";
• "Rose red with white tip";
• Mercado.

How to plant a garden radish, see the following video.