How to treat pepper from foliage diseases?

Pepper is a rather capricious culture that is prone to fungal, viral and bacterial infections.Peppers are often attacked by garden pests, and besides, plants are dying from improper care and lack of trace elements. That is why plants are particularly in need of treatment, and last but not least - in foliar dressing.

If you notice that your peppers wither and dry, pale or brown spots appear on the leaves, pimples and holes, the green parts turn red or turn yellow, turn lemon-colored and turn over - most likely, the plant is affected by the disease. Causes of diseases of peppers are very diverse, they can be divided into several categories:

• fungal;
• viral;
• bacterial;
• non-infectious.

Bacterial and viral problems are associated with pathogens that penetrate the soil and cause the death of the green part of the plant. In addition, they are often transmitted from one bush to another and affect plants both in the greenhouse and in open areas.

Noncommunicable causes have a different origin:

• unsuitable temperature conditions;
• illiterate moistening - excessive or, on the contrary, insufficient watering;
• soil poor in organic and mineral substances;
• improper fertilizer;
• drafts and prolonged exposure to wind;
• temperature drops.

The most common fungal lesions include black leg, late blight, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt, oedema and gray mold also often appear.

Among bacterial lesions, mild bacterial decay, bacterial wilt, black spot and bacterial carcinoma, as well as verticillis are most common.

Among the most common viruses are cucumber and tobacco mosaic, strick and stolbur.

Quite often, wilting of a plant is connected with the causes of a non-infectious property - they are caused by care errors, namely:

• excessive soil moisture - usually caused by excessive irrigation or clogging of the drainage holes of the containers;
• dry air - this applies to plants at the stage of growing seedlings: many make a fairly common mistake and put boxes near the battery, in this case, the leaves die and quickly fall off;
• lack of protection against wind and drafts - The plant should be planted not far from higher crops (for example, corn), which will restrain gusts of wind.

There are other problems that often cause the foliage to turn yellow:

• root underdevelopment - the reason for this pathology may be growing seedlings in a small container or an incorrectly performed picking;
• sparse watering - Peppers are very sensitive to the lack of moisture, with water deficiency, the leaves very often dry and fall.

With a lack of certain mineral substances, the plant may exhibit the following symptoms of the disease:

• nitrogen - leads to yellowing of the leaves and their fall;
• calcium - causes the appearance of gray-yellow spots;
• potassium - manifested in the twisting of sheet plates.

And of course, garden parasites have a devastating effect on peppers: slugs, aphids, as well as the Colorado potato beetle.

The modern market of products for gardeners and gardeners offers a wide selection of all kinds of drugs that successfully fight against many different diseases of peppers and other crops. They can have a specialized, but can - the most common action.

For example, Baktofit and Fitosporin help with blackleg and gray rot, Previkur has recommended itself to fight late blight, and Fusarium disappears after being treated with Glyocladin or Trichodermine.

For all types of fungal infections, copper-based fungicides can be used - copper sulfate, oxyfi or Bordeaux mixture.

Well help folk remedies. So, to eliminate the powdery mildew experienced gardeners advise to spray the plant with a soap-and-salt solution, as well as a decoction of horsetail or milk whey.

In diseases caused by bacterial lesions, copper-containing compounds, for example, copper oxychloride, are most often used. By the way, these drugs should be purchased even if the causes of the disease cannot be determined. However, keep in mind that such agents are very toxic and can harm not only the pathogens of peppers, but also people, therefore, when working, protective equipment is necessary - gloves and, if possible, a respirator.

But viral pathologies are not treated, the diseased plant should be uprooted and burned. However, for prevention, we can recommend the treatment of the green parts of seedlings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or skim milk.

As a precautionary measure, decoctions of various herbs have also proven themselves: wormwood, onions, tansy, dandelion, as well as yarrow. In the resulting infusions and decoctions will not be superfluous to add stimulants of plant immunity - aloe juice, succinic acid or ready-made formulations such as "Zircon", "Immunocytophyte" or "Inta-Vir." Such manipulations give a very good effect: - they destroy all pathogens, scare away unnecessary insects and their larvae, and in addition, stimulate natural immunity.

Many problems can be avoided if you plant peppers with the right neighbors, for example, if you plant peppers and potatoes or tomatoes in close proximity, you will most likely not be able to avoid “dating” with the Colorado beetle. In this case, you should purchase special insecticides, which are updated and improved almost every year.

When attacking slugs, you can pollinate the leaves with a mixture of tobacco dust and dry wormwood - for these unpleasant mollusks, this combination works very effectively, in addition, you can use the celandine decoction.

In the event of an aphid invasion, insecticides should be preferred. The best reviews won the drug "Decis", which allows you to get rid of even the colonies of aphids, as well as from their companions - ants.

Pests such as the whitefly and the garden spider mite cause great harm to the green parts of the plant. To get rid of the misfortune, peppers should be sprayed with an infusion of green garlic or onions, and for the greatest adhesion to the leaf plate, it is advised to add a little soap to the solution.

Keep in mind that any disease should be treated at the very initial stage, when there are too many pests, it is much more difficult to get rid of them. In addition, at the stage of the formation and ripening of fruits, the use of insecticides is seriously limited, since they can get into the fruits and impair their nutritional and taste properties.

Spraying of leaves of plants can be carried out in two cases - for pest control and as foliar feeding. It is proved that through the leaves and young stems of the plant absorb useful substances no worse than through the roots, and the digestibility of such compounds is quite large. That is why plants can be fertilized and treated by spraying the green parts - the stems and leaves.

The use of foliar treatment is recommended in the following situations:

• excessively high or lowered temperature of the soil - in this case, absorption of useful substances by the roots is problematic;
• too high degree of moisture of the earth;
• excessive soil acidity - in this case, the plant practically does not absorb phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen and calcium.

And of course, spraying is used to combat diseases affecting the green parts of the culture.

Foliar spraying is universally used by gardeners when stressful situations arise for plants - with fluctuations in temperature, transplantation, or the risk of developing infections.

Spraying is a fairly popular way of feeding the plants, because it contributes to:

• growth of deciduous mass;
• active formation of ovaries;
• quick ripening of fruits;
• more complete absorption of all minerals and vitamins.

Regardless of the purpose of spraying - feeding or treatment, the treatment should be carried out in the evening, preferably at 18-19 hours, because at this point there are no direct ultraviolet rays, so that the plant has time to absorb the added funds. It is advisable to carry out the procedure at a temperature not higher than 22 degrees. It is noticed that in cloudy weather nutrient and medicinal components are absorbed much more efficiently, but rainy weather is not suitable for treatment - water drops will simply wash away the preparations from the surface and the effect of their introduction will be zero.

Pay special attention to spraying the inside of the sheet - in this place the plates have a highly porous structure, so absorption is much faster.

As they say, the disease is easier to prevent than to cure, and sweet pepper diseases are no exception. The overwhelming majority of defeats of this culture cannot be cured, therefore it is necessary to take maximum measures to prevent the development of pathology.

In order to increase the resistance of the plant to culture diseases, it is necessary to spray them every 1.5-2 weeks with special biologics or decoctions and infusions according to popular recipes. Most gardeners agree that it is possible to scare off pests by infusing leaves with infusions of strongly smelling plants: wormwood, garlic, onions, or marigolds.

In addition, measures associated with treating bushes with solutions of potassium permanganate and boric acid show high efficiency — such measures will help prevent a lot of problems by protecting the plants from the moment the first sprout appears until the end of the harvest.

And of course, it must be remembered that the prevention of the development of diseases of the Bulgarian pepper can not be reduced to one spray. Only a set of measures, including disinfection of seeds, disinfection of the soil, compliance with the rules of crop rotation, the introduction of dressing and digging of the soil for the winter, will help minimize the risk of collision with infections of any vegetable garden.

What to do if the pepper leaves curled, see the next video.