Rules for growing cucumber seedlings

Cucumbers are recognized as one of the most popular vegetables in country houses and kitchen gardens among our compatriots.These are extremely tasty and healthy fruits that are well absorbed by both children and adults.

For many years, Zelentsi were planted with seeds, but some time ago, many vegetable growers appreciated the advantages of a seedling method - the harvest can be obtained this way faster, and the plants themselves grow stronger and stronger. However, it is very important to sow them correctly and first of all you should choose suitable dates for planting. Cucumbers are very thermophilic plants, which is why air temperature and soil are the main criteria affecting the survival time. In open ground, cucumbers can be planted when the air temperature is established at +15 degrees and above. Although at this time growth and development will be very slow, because during this period, cucumbers grow only during the day under the direct rays of the sun, and at night they are “hidden”.

Optimal transfer seedlings on the street when the temperature is about +20 degrees. At the same time, the development of seedlings on the windowsill should not last more than 3 weeks, otherwise it will outgrow, stretch, go to color and wither away when transplanted. Based on these introductory statements, it can be calculated that in the Moscow region and central Russia to plant cucumber seeds for seedlings in early May.

In this case, the movement on the street can be carried out by the 20th. As a rule, by this time the air and the earth are already warming up to the desired level. In the southern regions, the appropriate time comes a little earlier, and in the North and in the Ural regions - a little later.

Many gardeners when choosing the right time for planting garden crops and garden crops use the advice of the Lunar Calendar. It is based on the position that the phases of the earth's satellite affect the movement of all fluids on the planet, and since the juices inside the plants are also fluids, they are subject to the influence of the moon.

Cucumber seeds can be stored for quite some time. At a temperature not exceeding +15 degrees and humidity of 50–60%, seed material can be stored even for 9–10 years. However, the best germinate those whose age is 3-4 years. The yield of a crop depends on the correct selection and preparation of seeds.

Be sure to pay attention to the information contained on the package: shelf life, characteristics of the variety, growing conditions and others. If the seeds are of high quality and the storage conditions are as required, then the planting material is at a much lesser degree at risk of getting fungal and bacterial infections, and the harvest will certainly please.

Many gardeners prefer to harvest the seeds themselves. In this case, you need to take into account the following nuances:

• you should not grow the seeds of last year, because their yield will not be as expected;
• if hybrid F1 varieties are grown, then the prospect of obtaining vegetables with the same properties as the “parent” ones is minimal;
• It is best to use proven varieties, even if you want to try something new, because very often the expectations and the reality are very far from each other;
• if it is decided to buy seeds in the store, then you should make sure that the trading premises are dry and ventilated, otherwise it is possible that the seed material will lose its quality due to improper storage.

There are several types of cucumber varieties.

• Salad If you choose vegetables of this type, you can enjoy fresh and very crispy cucumbers all summer long. On the packaging with such seeds is often labeled "parthenokarpicheskie". She suggests that there are no seeds in the fruit. In addition, a similar mark indicates the possibility of self-pollination of flowers and, accordingly, in the absence of dependence on insect pollinators. Such cucumbers can be grown not only in the open field, but also in greenhouses.
• Hybrid. These varieties are bred specifically for cultivation in different climatic regions, so if you are not sure which varieties will best grow in specific environmental conditions, it is worthwhile to dwell on hybrids. Experts advise to give preference to those blanks, on the packaging of which is marked "without bitterness". By choosing this variety, you can be sure that you do not need to cut off the edges of grown cucumbers and remove peel from them.

In addition, it is very important to pay attention to the ripening of cucumbers. If an early ripe variety is purchased, then the harvest can be obtained at the end of June. The mid-season variety will delight in July, in late-ripening they fruit right up to the first frosts. Many people combine all kinds of cucumbers in their garden beds, thanks to which summer residents can enjoy the taste and aroma of fresh Zelentsovo all summer long.

Regardless of whether the seeds are collected independently or purchased in a store, not all of them are viable, so in order not to waste time and effort, a simple check should be made: prepare a weak salt solution (at the rate of 50 grams per liter of warm water) and pour into it's cooked stuff. Those seeds that rise to the surface are empty, they will not grow, they can be safely thrown out. Good and good seeds remain at the bottom - they should be dried and used for planting.

In order to reduce the risk of plant fungal and bacterial infections, the seeds should be disinfected. Most often for this they are dipped for half an hour into a weak solution of potassium permanganate (approximately 2 g per 1 liter). There is another method of disinfection. Many resort to dry dressings. In this case, the dry container is filled with TMTD, NIUIF-2, the seeds are poured into it and shaken vigorously for several minutes. This treatment kills the pathogenic microflora in the seeds, helps to increase their resistance to various diseases of garden crops.

Before planting, the seeds of cucumbers are often soaked in order to make them more germinating. As a rule, take plain water, although many gardeners with extensive experience in the cultivation of cucumbers recommend the use of special nutritional formulations. For their preparation in one liter of cool water dissolve one of such drugs as:

• nitrophoska - 1 tsp;
• sifted ash - 1 tsp;
• liquid mullep in a mixture with ashes - 1 tsp. everyone.

Cotton or linen bags are used for soaking. In them, the seeds are kept in a nutrient solution for about 10–13 hours, after which the seed is removed from the bag and washed with running water and again placed in a damp cloth for 1-2 days. It is very important to maintain the humidity of the material and, if necessary, to conduct additional irrigation.

Hardening procedures to which the seed is subjected are very useful for the future plant. Seeds will not damage the heating.It has long been observed that if at the stage of preparation of seed slightly warm, then the total number of female flowers will be much more. That is why experienced gardeners advise to keep them close to batteries and other heating devices for a month, then germination will be much higher, and the number of empty flowers will decrease significantly.

And shortly before planting should proceed directly to the hardening. To do this, the seeds are placed in a canvas bag for 2 days and stored in a cellar or refrigerator. It is very important that the fabric at this moment was slightly damp. To do this, use plain water or special preparations. For example, the high efficiency shows a composition based on 20 mg of boric acid, 300 g of zinc sulfate and 500 g of baking soda dissolved in 1 liter of water.

In addition, a mixture of 5 g of potassium nitrate, 0.2 g of magnesium sulphate with 10 g of superphosphate proved to be a good idea — these volumes are also given per liter of water. Such manipulations significantly increase the frost resistance of the crop, so that seedlings, even after transplanting into open ground, can withstand adverse weather conditions, which are not uncommon in central Russia and in the northern regions.

Land for seedlings can be bought finished at the store, but many prefer to make the substrate on their own. Cucumbers prefer a light, nutritious soil with neutral acidity and rich in nutrients, of which there are very few in store soil. To do this, mix the garden soil, as well as peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 0.5. For each bucket of prepared soil should be made 1 cup of chopped wood ash. All components must be thoroughly mixed and used for its intended purpose.

For greater precaution, many recommend treating the mixture with a solution of potassium permanganate, which will destroy the causative agents of fungal infections and garden pest larvae. However, you can resort to alternative disinfection options. You need to freeze the ground, leave it at below-zero temperatures outside for 1-2 weeks, you can process it with hot steam or just ignite it in the oven or microwave. The land before planting can be further enriched with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. To this end, urea, potassium nitrate and superphosphate are added to it in dosages indicated on the packaging of the preparations.

Many people grow seedlings on peat tablets, which are placed in small plastic containers. The tablet is a pressed peat, which is tightened from all sides by the thinnest mesh of natural fiber. In form, each tablet resembles a small washer with a notch in the upper part — that is, seeds are placed in it for subsequent cultivation. The tablet initially has a height of about 7–8 mm, but immediately before planting it should be soaked in water and in just a few seconds it swells and increases in size by 5–6 times.

Instead of peat, some manufacturers use coconut fiber. From the point of view of agricultural engineering, these substrates are completely interchangeable.Both peat and coconut are considered to be an ideal medium for seed germination, since they retain moisture well and prevent the growth of such fungus as the black leg, which often affects seedlings if it is grown in poorly prepared soil mixture.

However, it should be borne in mind that this pleasure is by no means cheap - the cost of a tablet is 5–10 rubles per item. That is why the use of such "helpers" is not justified when the seedlings are grown on an industrial scale or for commercial use.

With small volumes such tablets are considered truly indispensable. By the way, some gardeners prefer such an unusual way of producing seedlings as growing in sawdust. In this substrate, the root system is formed very well, since all nutrients reach the roots as quickly as possible.

However, peat tablets are not for everyone. Many believe that after growing in this nutrient substrate, transplanting seedlings into ordinary garden soil will be stressful for a young plant, therefore such summer residents prefer the standard containers in the old fashioned way. Most often in the course are plastic cups, pots, packaging from dairy products, special cassettes.

Cups made of peat are also quite popular, especially considering that when transplanting seedlings, it is not necessary to remove it from such a container - this prevents damage to the roots, and peat, once in the ground, begins to decompose and feed the root zone of the seedling. Regardless of what capacity is used, it is necessary to prepare openings in it for air access to the seeds and roots of cucumber.

After all the preparatory work is completed, you can start planting seeds. Follow these step-by-step instructions:

• Drainage of expanded clay or crushed stone should be laid on the bottom of the tank, container should be placed on the pallet and filled with prepared soil by about 2/3;
• after that, the land is plentifully watered, allowed to drain and the soil mixture is left to mature; it should be slightly damp, crumbly and non-sticky;
• 2 seeds are placed in the center of the container, deepening them by 0.5–1 cm;
• seedlings sprinkled with sand, slightly compacted on top and sprinkled with a spray bottle;
• then cover with film or glass and put on a sunny place.

In order to grow strong and healthy seedlings from seeds, you should follow certain rules of agrotechnology and carefully care for seedlings.

Cucumber seeds germinate at temperatures from +25 to +28 degrees, therefore, at the first stage, the plants need to provide this level of heating. As soon as the cotyledon leaves appear and unfold, the temperature can be somewhat lowered and maintained during the first 10 days at a level from +17 to +20 degrees during the day and +15 degrees at night. Such a measure is necessary because it will allow the plant to accustom the difference between day and night temperatures, as it happens in natural conditions.

The room where the seedlings are grown should be well ventilated, but drafts and strong lowering of temperatures cannot be allowed - in this case the young plant may die. A week before planting it is necessary to harden the seedlings, accustoming them to more severe environmental conditions in the open field. For this, seedlings are brought out on the sunny side and left there, starting from 2-3 hours and gradually increasing the residence time.

Cucumbers are considered plants of short daylight. Scientists, breeders brought hybrids that are neutral to the level of natural light during the day, but the plant is demanding on the brightness of the incoming light. If it is insufficient, the seedlings begin to stretch, the assimilation of nutrients deteriorates and the young plant begins to wither.

To avoid this, it is imperative that the seedlings be filled up with special fitolamps or, in their absence, with daylight lamps, which can be purchased at any specialized store of garden equipment.

Regular watering is the basic component of growing strong and healthy seedlings, along with lighting and optimal temperature conditions. Before germination and for five days after germination, spray the plants with a spray bottle twice during the daylight hours. Then you can switch to watering. And in fact, and in another case, you should take warm water (+25 degrees). Watering the seedlings on the edge of the tank in a thin stream so as not to touch the stalk and leaves.

After each wetting, the ground must be ground with river sand or a ground mixture of humus and ground. It is important not to overmoisten and stagnate water. Otherwise, rotting of an immature root system or the formation of pathogenic fungi, which cause the death of the whole plant, may occur.

The seedling period is very short - only 3 weeks. During this time, the plants do not have time to feel the need for organic and mineral supplements. That is why, if the soil mixture was compiled with its own hands and useful substances were brought into it even before planting - you can completely do without dressings. But if you used the finished soil, then at some point you can note a change in the color of cucumbers, decay of foliage, cessation of growth. Under constant conditions (light, heat, watering), these signs are often a signal that the seedlings need feeding.

Experienced growers recommend mulching the ground with sand mixed with ash after each watering. In this case, it will not only maintain the required level of moisture, but will also become a good fertilizer for the growing seedling. If necessary, you can pour a bush ready-made solutions of drugs, it is very important that their composition necessarily included boron. In addition, you can spend foliar feeding.

Some believe that the dangers await plants only in the natural environment, and at the stage of home-growing, they are protected from infections and pests. This does not correspond to reality, because young cucumbers may encounter problems on the windowsill and in the greenhouse. Most common are diseases such as root, gray or white rot, black leg, powdery mildew, bacteriosis, cladosporia or ascochitis. It is not excluded the appearance of pests. Most often, cucumber seedlings are attacked by aphids, spider mites, the greenhouse whitefly, gall nematodes, wireworms, medars, thrips and cucumbers.

If it is noticed that the condition of the plant has deteriorated sharply, then it is very important to determine by whom or by whom exactly this problem is caused, and only after the diagnosis can the treatment be started. Most often gardeners face the following symptoms:

• close spots are formed on the leaf plates, on which sooty fungi gradually form, while the greenery blackens and dries out rather quickly - most likely the cause of this disease is the appearance of the greenhouse whitefly;
• if the leaves, flowers and young ovaries begin to frown and curl - the plant became a victim of melon aphid;

• on the leaves there are rounded patches of olive color, slightly oily, which become brown within a few days - this indicates a powdery powdery mildew;
• when the root part of the stem turns yellow and cracks, and the leaves begin to wilt, this is a clear sign of root rot;
• when gray rotting spots are formed at the branching of the stem, it is gray rot;
• if the plant withers, and on its roots, translucent-looking larvae can be noted, it is a cucumber mosquito;
• the main stem takes an unnatural shape and begins to grow woody - the plant is attacked by a wireworm;
• when gnawed leaves are noticed, and on the ground near the plant, there are visible bright shiny traces - these are slugs;

• if small spots are formed on the leaf plates, and their lower surface is covered with the finest cobweb, then the plant has encountered a spider mite;
• if one day it was discovered that the young bushes are lying on the ground, and the stem is having a bite, then the bear has settled in the ground;
• the appearance of yellow spots on the leaves, which quickly change color to gray, indicates the beginning of ascochitis;
• white plaque on the stems and leaves can speak of white rot, especially if the process of decay begins in places where such marks appear;

• the appearance of an olive plaque with subsequent cracking indicates the appearance of cladosporia;
• when the stem near the root becomes thin and begins to rot, it is a black leg;
• about the invasion of thrips can indicate the appearance of small angular spots of yellow color, which soon become brown and dry;
• a very dangerous symptom is blistering and thickening on the roots - it indicates the appearance of a gall nematode, which can kill a seedling in a matter of days;
• At the same time, there are problems that are in no way connected with diseases and pests - they only testify to improper care of a young plant;

• if the color of the trunk and leaves has changed - it's just a lack of minerals, you should feed the young plant;
• if the leaf plates have become rather rigid, and the top of the plant has begun to dry out, this, on the contrary, indicates an excess of fertilizers;
• when the edges of the leaves begin to dry - this indicates that the air temperature is either high or low, so it’s worth changing the heating level in the room.

When treating plants, many make a common mistake - they confuse the cause of the disease and the disease itself. For example, the cause of the black leg is excessive soil moisture, but the seedlings do not die from moisture, but from the black leg, so the cessation of irrigation and transplanting the problem will not solve. In order to save the plant, more serious measures should be taken.

Treatment of various pathologies requires different approaches to treatment. Downy mildew passes if the seedlings are sprayed with the drug Oxy or copper sulphate solution in water, and the powdery mildew itself is afraid of the means Topaz or Barrier.

You can save the plant from root rot by sprinkling the affected areas with crushed coal or chalk. In addition, during treatment should not spud the seedlings and to allow sharp fluctuations in temperature. From gray rot, like powdery mildew, Topaz can help, but most gardeners prefer to use a mixture that includes 1 cup of ash and 1 spoon of copper sulphate.

This composition pollinates the plant.Bacteriosis and black leg are successfully treated with Bordeaux liquid, and ascochitis in the early stages passes if the seedlings are sprayed with Vincit or Saprol. In case of cladosporiosis, Fundazol has maximum efficiency.

In addition to infectious diseases, young plants can become victims of insect pests. Many of them enter the room along with the land in which they hibernate as larvae, and in warm conditions they wake up and begin their parasitic activity. If the greenhouse whitefly settled in the room, then the plant should be sprayed with the composition “Previkur” or “Aktellik”, “Karbofos” saves from the melon aphid.

In a collision with a cucumber mosquito, the sapling “Aktara” or “BI-58” should be treated, and when a wireworm and gall nematode appear, the soil should be treated with manganic acid solution. From unpleasant slugs well helps tobacco dust. It should be sprayed on the sapling, in its absence, the plant can be powdered with wood ash, but only chemicals, such as Medvedtoks and Rembeks, can fight with Medvedka. Thrips are afraid of drugs based on thiamethoxam and the same potassium permanganate.

For beginners, for the first time, seedlings should be purchased on the market or in a special store. In order not to be mistaken and buy the seedlings that grow into a good strong plant, you should follow the following recommendations:

• optimally, that the finished seedlings should be no more than 20 cm in length;
• The stem of the seedlings should be about the diameter of a pencil or a little thinner if the stem is thicker - this suggests that the plant most likely received too much nitrogen-containing fertilizers, in this case the green mass of cucumbers is very active, but the ovary is formed very little ;
• leaf plates must be saturated green, well developed;
• the presence of any spots of any size and color is a symptom of the disease;
• The seedlings ready for planting in the open ground should have about 4–5 leaves, and the cotyledon leaves should not be stunted - their dryness is a direct indication that the plant was poorly cared for.

However, if there is a desire to grow a sapling on your own, then it is worth a try, because there is nothing terrible and difficult about it.

Growing cucumber seedlings at home or in greenhouse conditions is not an easy task, it requires careful preparation for planting, and a young plant requires special conditions for germination. But if you comply with all the requirements of agricultural technology, then, without any doubt, in the summer you can get a good harvest of juicy, fragrant and crispy cucumbers.

See the following video for tips on growing cucumber seedlings.