Raspberry "Tarusa": characteristics of the variety, seedlings and planting

The taste of raspberry is difficult to confuse with anything. This sweet berry is a favorite treat for children and adults.Variety "Tarusa" is popular among gardeners for many reasons. It is about him and will be discussed in this article.

"Tarusa" appeared in 1993 by crossing such varieties as Stambovy-1 and Stolichnaya. Among amateur gardeners, the name “raspberry tree” is often used, since its shoots are rather stiff and thick compared to other representatives of this plant species. Experts also use the term "standard", describing such breeds.

To understand why the hearts of gardeners were instantly conquered by this bush, you need to familiarize yourself with the detailed description of the variety:

• Straight stems without thorns grow in length up to 2 m, while having a thickness of about 2 cm, from them there are 2-3 shoots, on which grows up to 20 berries.
• For the leaves are typical heart-shaped, dark green color, large size, veining, fluff.
• Fruits in the form of a blunt cone differ in large size, bright red color, sweet and sour taste, juiciness, but at the same time sufficient density, weighing up to 12-15 g. Seeds are small and not very noticeable.
• Winter hardiness is one of the most important characteristics when gardeners choose a suitable crop. Given the large territory of our country and the degree of severity of the climate in its various corners, preference is given to the raspberry "Tarusa", which withstands jumps of up to -30 degrees Celsius.
• The yield of the "tree" is quite high, it bears fruit almost the entire summer period.

The list of positive and negative characteristics of the plant will help to complete the overall picture:

• High yield. One bush of a crimson tree can produce up to 4 kg of fruits per year, and up to 20 tons can be obtained per hectare.
• Large berries have a dense structure and a presentable appearance, which means they are good for sale.
• Small bones are almost not felt and do not spoil the taste.
• Transportation of fruits will not cause problems if the berry is transported correctly, that is, together with the stem.
• The lack of thorns greatly facilitates the care of bushes and harvest.
• Winter hardiness The ability to withstand fairly low temperatures is the undeniable advantage of Tarusa.
• Disease resistance makes growing less time consuming.
• The strength of the shoots helps to keep yields at a high level.

There are not so many minuses in the variety, but they are still present:

• The taste of berries. They are not sweet enough in comparison with other types, have a sweet-sour shade. Summer residents prefer to harvest tree raspberries for future use than to use fresh.
• Some external data may confuse the sophisticated consumer, it is the double or curved shape of the fruit.
• Defenseless in front of aphids. This pest causes damage to the leaves. If you do not take action on time, the bush may die.
• The constant struggle of gardeners with weeds increases the complexity of care for raspberries.

As can be seen, the positive qualities of raspberry "Tarusa" are much more, and they easily overlap the insignificant minuses of the variety.

In order to collect a decent crop, you must comply with the rules of agricultural technology.

Start by selecting a site where the bushes will be located. It is necessary to give preference to a well-lit, but less wet place, as raspberries grow better in such conditions. Loamy or sandy soil should be loose, drained, enriched with minerals, have a weak acidity.

The stems of the plant gradually become quite massive, the bushes can bend strongly under the weight of the fruit, so it is most convenient to plant the “tree” along the fence or build a support in the form of pegs or trellis in a timely manner.

You can start landing both in spring and autumn. It is believed that the best periods for this will be the beginning of March-the end of April and the middle of October-the end of November. If you start planting in the spring months, you need to do it as soon as possible, because you will only be able to harvest the crop by next year. The autumn period should not be warm, otherwise with strong vegetation the seedlings may die in the winter cold.

Seedlings are best purchased in the nursery and try to create conditions similar to the previous growth place. It is desirable that the young growth had a stalk thickness of 1 cm and a strong, resilient, strong root system. The base of the shoots must be littered with at least three buds, which subsequently begin the formation of fruit branches.

Description of the landing process consists of a list of certain rules:

• wells are dug under each sapling about 50 cm wide, up to 60 cm in depth, at a distance of about 1 m from each other, and a gap of up to 1.5-2 m is created between the rows;
• fertilizer is added to each ditch to choose from (manure, compost, ash, peat);

• the plant is placed in the middle to the depth level of the root collar;
• the holes are covered with earth, tamped closer to the base of the stem;
• the tops of the "trees" are cut, leaving no more than 25-30 cm above the ground level;
• there is abundant watering - 5 liters of water per bush;
• the soil is mulched, that is, it is superficially covered with humus or sawdust in a layer of 10-20 cm.

At the end of the landing, it is desirable to create a shade of raspberries, to protect from direct sunlight for 2-3 days. After 8-10 years it is better for bushes to pick up a new place for permanent growth, because during this period the soil will be depleted, the greatest amount of mineral substances will be depleted.

This variety grows quite well, and to multiply it, You can use two methods:

• root cuttings;
• young basal shoots.

To use the first option, you must perform some simple actions:

• to dig up an adult plant, to separate cuttings that have at least 2 buds from the mother bush;
• the scions are deposited in boxes filled with river sand and peat in a 1: 1 ratio, left in a lighted and warm enough place for rooting;
• transplant rooted cuttings in separate containers with fertile soil, stored until next year;
• Move the finished tree saplings to the ground at the main landing site using the standard method described above.

For the implementation of the breeding method of basal shoots it is necessary to carry out simple manipulations. This method is the simplest and most common among gardeners:

• adult bush age of at least 3 years fully dug out of the ground, shake off;
• young strong shoots with a developed root system are planted in previously prepared beds, fertilized, watered, mulched;
• maternal plant gently returned to the place.

With the due diligence of summer residents, the most rewarding period comes - the gathering of berries. The raspberry tree has no thorns at all, which makes picking much easier and more convenient.

Fruit ripening occurs approximately from the beginning of July to mid-August. Up to 4 kg of fine berries can be harvested from one adult “tree” and up to 20 tons per hectare in a good year - no wonder this variety is famous for its yield. Removal of raspberries should be carried out in a day or two, as it ripens. If this is not done on time, the fruits may deteriorate or fall off.

It is necessary to take into account the weather conditions. In the case of collection after precipitation appears the probability of losing most of the crop due to the imminent deterioration of the tender fruit.

Berries gently spread in a dry roomy container, prepared in advance. Otherwise, if necessary, pouring berries can be dented. The structure of the fetus is quite dense, so they are well transported. However, we must bear in mind that they will have to be torn along with the stalk in order to maintain freshness and appearance for a longer time.

Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology will help to achieve good yield and avoid wasting extra efforts when growing.

Culture likes moisture, but not excessive. It should be abundantly watered only during the period of fruiting, so that the berries are juicy enough, but in all it is necessary to observe the measure. During the rest period, quite one watering per week. There should not be excessive moisture, as this can lead to the death of the root system. It is not always possible to choose a flat zone for planting a bush, but with this option there would be a natural outflow of excess.

In the dry season, it is necessary to mulch the soil repeatedly, which gives it additional protection and improves its properties, prevents moisture loss, reduces the number of weeds. Also, mulching will help keep the earth warm during the cold season.

Periodic loosening of the soil is carried out to increase the access of oxygen to the roots. Loosening should be no deeper than 10 cm, so as not to damage the root system. In this way, the soil crust is destroyed, the penetrating ability of the soil is improved, weed sprouts are destroyed. With the latter, you need to regularly fight - weed so that they do not take away nutrients and do not shade the main crop. For weeding, you can use the cultivator or rake.

To maintain the correct form of culture, you need to pinch the shoots around the entire circumference of an adult bush. You can perform the procedure both in spring and autumn. In September, it is allowed to begin cutting annual shoots. The rules for pruning are not complicated: you should remove stunted stems, leaving only 5-6 of the strongest. This method will lead to the active formation of side branches in the next season.

Experienced gardeners, able to maintain high yields, know that during intensive fruiting raspberries, despite the strength of the shoots, can sag under the weight of their own berries. Therefore, they recommend to use the trellis. The supporting structure is manufactured according to the following principle:

• Throughout the row, stakes 1.5–2 m high with intervals of 4–5 m are driven in;
• between the poles, the wire is stretched above the ground level by 30 cm and 1 m;
• the branches are attached to the trellis with a rope or copper wire.

It is important to properly prepare the plant for the winter. Usually by the beginning of October raspberries are tilted to the ground. In a later period, the stems may become stiff with cold, and it is no longer necessary to bend them in order not to injure. For the implementation of this event is perfect low level trellis, located 30 cm from the ground. To him and recorded shoots, pre-cleared of foliage. If the support is not installed, it is permissible to attach the bushes to the stone or some other load.

There are diseases that, unfortunately, affect this variety, including insects and some diseases.

The main pest is aphid, which often settles on young leaves, shoots and inflorescences.Aphids feed on their juice, because of which the foliage twists, dries, the tops of the shoots are covered with black bloom. If you notice insects at the earliest stage of settlement, you need to collect them manually. Otherwise, the affected leaves and the ends of the shoots are cut, then burned. Before and after flowering, sore bushes are sprayed with a one percent solution of bitoxibacillin.

The raspberry beetle eats leaves and flowers, lays the larvae in the berries, and they, in turn, devour the sweet flesh, as a result of which the fruits become small, lose their shape, rot. The measures to combat the beetle are as follows:

• regularly loosen the basal soil;
• cut off the branches of adult bushes every year;
• destroy weeds from which the insect can crawl;
• during the formation of buds remove pests hands;
• before blooming, sprinkle with a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 5 g per 10 l of water;
• cut and burn the affected areas of the plant.

The raspberry mole in the early spring gnaws at the buds, which significantly slows down the growth of the culture. To prevent death, all rotten shoots are cut to the ground. On the living branches during the period of bud swelling, the soil and the base of the stems should be sprinkled with Tsvetofos or Karbofos.

Raspberry-strawberry weevil feeds on young succulent shoots, gnawing holes in them, drinking a life-giving juice. As buds ripen, which later fall, the pest deposits its larvae in them. Ways of struggle are similar to the previous ones:

• landing away from strawberries;
• regular loosening of the soil at the bases and between the rows;
• planting between the rows of lilies of the valley, garlic, marigolds, nasturtium to create a tart smell, you can optionally rub flowers;
• infected buds, leaves are cut or collected, then burned;
• manual collection of beetles;
• settling on the ground beetles site, each of which gladly eats up to 25 pests per day.

Stem gall midge, in appearance resembling an ordinary mosquito, destroys young shoots, laying eggs in the smallest cracks of the stems. Hatching larvae eat the branches from the inside. Traces of life can be seen in the form of swelling on the stems. To get rid of a malicious mosquito, you need to act as follows:

• periodic thinning of bushes (Gallitsa prefers to settle in places with insufficient airing, low lighting);
• it is necessary to monitor the amount of nitrogen fertilizers, when perekormke stalks burst, which may lead to the multiplication of an insect;
• avoidance of excessive moisture, which will adversely affect the root system, as well as attract gall midges;
• clean out the tumor or cut off the shoots they hit, then burn;
• process bushes with solutions "Actellic" or Bi-58 at the rate of 15 ml per bucket of water.

The following diseases are more common:

• Chlorosis. It is characterized by drying of the fruit, yellowing of leaves, thinning of the shoots. It is necessary to treat fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, removing excess moisture, reducing the acidity of the soil. Infected plants must be burned.
• Kinky. Fruits dry up, begin to sour strongly. The leaves wrinkle, shrink, become hard, the bottom becomes brown. Affected shoots thicken. Help bushes can be supplemented with organic and mineral fertilizers.
• Rust. The appearance of orange swelling on the sheets, after which the latter die off, indicates the disease. The treatment consists of spraying the culture in early spring with a 3% Bordeaux liquid, and after harvesting with a 1% solution.

Having re-read numerous reviews, it is possible to draw certain conclusions that culture is quite in demand and has a sufficient amount of positive qualities. Residents of the southern regions of the country have higher yields compared with other locations. This is natural, since the number of sunny days there is more, and the radiation is much more intense.

However, it is necessary to water the vegetation more often and more abundantly. Pest attacks are not so strong. The taste of berries is more pronounced and much sweeter.

Gardeners living in temperate climates praise the variety for large fruits that are stored for a long time and are well transported. Strong raspberry trunks really resemble young trees, which often makes it possible to do without additional supports. Although those who grow crops in large quantities, still advised to use trellis or plant next to the fence. The winter period is well tolerated with proper preparation for the cold season.

For some lovers of such a useful delicacy, the sweetness itself is important, but this variety is not distinguished by this characteristic, because there are also negative feedback from summer residents. In particular, those who saw the neighbors in view very tasty fruits, but were disappointed with the result. It is a well-known fact that the sugar content in the berries depends on the intensity of the sun.

Amateur gardeners who take care of the crop thoroughly, in their opinion, receive a good harvest in 3-5 years. It is said that the bushes are really starting to lean toward the ground under the weight of the fruits. Many are pleased with the complete absence of thorns, which greatly facilitates the process of leaving and harvesting.