Planting rules of onion sets in open ground

Perhaps a few hot dishes or salads do without onions.This vegetable not only has a bright and memorable taste, but also fills the body with vitamins, which explains its widespread popularity. However, in order to enjoy the rich harvest, you will first have to work hard and carefully care for the onions. Of course, it is impossible not to mention the importance of the proper planting of the onion sets in open ground.

The main feature of the onion is that only if the correct temperature is observed will it be successfully grown. If there is a blunder on this issue, then it will either “sell out” too small bulbs, or it will upset the appearance of arrows. This moment can be explained by understanding the life cycle of culture. Ideally, in the first year the onion is poured with sugar, and in the second - it blooms, as a result of which a “nugget” is formed, which is an accumulation of small seeds.

But such a situation arises only in hot, dry weather reigning in the semi-deserts of Asia. As you might guess, Russian gardeners are forced to act in different conditions. Therefore, for the first year, the onion produces only a small fruit, unsuitable for feeding, which has received the name sevok, for the following year already habitual turnips are obtained from the planted sevka, and a year later - seeds.

Onions are very demanding as to storage temperature, and to planting. A winter stay in the cold, ranging from five to ten degrees with a plus sign, ensures that the bulbous spring will only bloom.

If active growth of green mass is necessary, then the temperature should be higher - from eighteen to twenty degrees with a plus sign. It is achieved by placing the planting material in warm, heated rooms, but not near the working batteries. In general, in order to achieve a culture of dense healthy turnips instead of arrows, it is necessary to monitor that the temperature reaches twenty degrees with a plus sign during storage, and the soil temperature reaches ten to twelve degrees with a plus sign during planting.

In general, the exact dates of the landing of seeding on the beds are determined according to the available weather and the degree of warming of the soil. The bow is not afraid of cold weather, but if it is planted in cold ground, a large number of arrows will appear, which, in turn, leads to a decrease in yield.

In addition, the initial stages of the culture will require a lot of moisture, which suggests that after the completion of frosts should not pass a large amount of time. Therefore, for example, for the Leningrad region and the Moscow region, experts advise starting landing in early May. If we are talking about the Siberian region or the Far East, then we will have to start in the middle or even at the end of the month. In the southern regions, work begins in early April or even at the end of March. The Volga region implies landing at the end of April or at the beginning of May.

In any case, with the landing on a turnip, you should not hurry, so as not to get the hands because of the returned frosts, characterized by temperature differences both day and night. But it is also dangerous to delay, because late planted sevok will lead to the emergence of a large number of feathers, and the turnips themselves will not develop. After some time, the green mass will wither, but the fruits themselves will not ripen.

Seeds selected for planting should be divided into two groups in size, simultaneously eliminating diseased, dried, rotted and other damaged specimens. Landing small will occur in early spring, around the end of April. So she had enough time to grow to the required size.In addition, you should not be afraid of the appearance of flowering shoots - the inferiority of the onion will not give them the opportunity. Big sevka landed later, somewhere in May.

Before you choose a particular grade, you should understand, and where do sevki in general come from.

• Small onions can be obtained by sowing nibs - seeds of a dark color. At the beginning of May, they are first soaked in potassium permanganate for half a day to prevent diseases, after which they are sown on the same beds, where ordinary onions germinate. Leave between them will need about one centimeter.

• Sevki can grow as seedlings. The seeds go deeper into the containers with nutrient soil, they are provided with proper watering from the spray bottle, lighting and fertilizing. When they germinate, the seedlings are taken out into a room with a lower temperature, for example, on a balcony. As soon as the bulbous feathers appear between twelve and fifteen centimeters in height, they can be sent to open ground. At the same time it will not be necessary to wait for some excessively warm temperature - it is enough that the earth simply thawed out.

Onions respond to the length of daylight, so for planting it is best to choose those varieties that are bred or adapted for a particular area. For example, varieties that are the brainchild of breeders in the north, in the south, where the day is short, will not form an onion at all.

Selecting varieties for the garden, it is better to combine different, differing in taste. The well-known "old men" Spassky, Strigunovsky, Bessonovsky, Pogarsky and others with wide zoning landed on the entire central belt of Russia. Such sharp varieties as “Centurion” and “Golden Semko”, as well as the peninsular “Hercules”, “Zolotnik” and “Sputnik” are also popular.

Extremely positive reviews are found in the variety "Stuttgarter Riesen", which does not rot, develops quickly and has an unusual sharp taste. “Centurion” is also considered worthy - it has outstanding keeping quality and savory taste. Beginner gardeners are better off choosing from five varieties in order to determine the ones you like the most over the course of several seasons. For convenience, it is better to choose such sets, which has a diameter of from one to two centimeters - these bulbs ripen faster and develop more rapidly. There is an unspoken rule to grow sweet bulbs using seedlings.

The onions themselves should not be damaged or somehow mechanically damaged. Spots, molds, and any suspicious manifestations should be avoided. Easily pressing on the material, it is important to feel its density. In addition, the upper skins should be seamlessly cleaned. It is better to buy dry sevok, but if it is slightly moist, it is not scary - it can be dried at home by spreading the fruit on paper.

By the way, dryness can be checked if you take a handful of fruit in your hand and shake it well. Rustle will guarantee the dryness of the material. It is worth avoiding purchases in cold weather on the market, as it happens to get frozen material that will not produce fruit in the future.

It is better to do this when the temperature rises above zero. Brought home seed need to be dried. To do this, it unfolds on a flat surface, for example, on a table where air can easily penetrate, providing airing. A few days before the planned sowing, the onions are picked and cleaned from the skins.

Before you prepare the site, you need to choose the right one. Of course, there must be a lot of light to somehow get closer to Asian conditions, and there is enough fresh air responsible for regular airing, away from bushes and trees. It is important that the soil is not clay, but sandy loam or peat.It is forbidden to plant sevok and in lowlands with heavy over-wetted soils. Steep precipices characterized by fluid stasis are also dangerous.

The issue of groundwater cannot be overlooked - they cannot be placed at a depth of less than fifty centimeters. The ideal predecessors will be potatoes, peas, cabbage and cucumbers. Together with the onions they do not have the same pests and diseases, so the danger to the culture should not be expected. In addition, the cultivation of the above crops requires abundant feedings, so the onions will initially be on nutrient soil. In this case, in no case can not send onions on the beds, where previously lived its other varieties, garlic or carrots. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus are usually applied in the fall, and those that contain nitrogen in the composition in the spring.

It is recommended to begin weed control in the fall, since the culture itself does not do well with them. The plot is dug up to the depth of a shovel, that is, somewhere between fifteen and twenty centimeters. Then you should wait for the occurrence of weeds and treat them with a chemical solution. It is best to give preference to the drug "Tornado" - its 75 milliliters are diluted in 3 liters of water, after which the resulting liquid is processed weaving beds. When weeds die, they need to be removed and wait for the survivors. After this digging is repeated.

Immediately before planting, the soil will have to be loosened and leveled, and, if desired, also rolled up to get a flat surface, since the weak roots of a culture will not cope with dense lumps of soil on their own. Usually one autumn digging is enough, and in spring the treatment is carried out with the help of a rake. It should be mentioned that The following year, onions should not be planted on the same bed, the same can be said about the next two years. In other words, culture can return only after three years. If, however, developing, onions often hurt, then re-plant it will be possible only after five years.

In the autumn, compost, rotted manure (approximately five kilograms per square meter of land), as well as fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus are applied to the beds. You can add and wood ash - one kilogram per square meter beds. If the acidity of the soil is not satisfactory, then it is normalized with a lime mortar or crushed chalk. In general, culture loves a neutral and not sour land.

It will be correct to treat the seedlings before planting, if there is a chance of infection with fungal diseases, such as peronosporosis or powdery mildew. Usually pink potassium permanganate is used for this purpose. If you want to get a head from sevka, the material is sent to the open ground in its original state. If sowing onions should lead to the appearance of feathers, then a few days before the event, the top is cut off from the sevka. This operation will help to stimulate the active development of green mass.

The bed itself must be cleaned of residues of weeds, pebble and other debris. It is important to sow in a well-lit area, because the shadow sometimes activates the processes of rotting culture. A good idea would be to plant carrots, beets and cabbage next to the onion beds. True, there are some clarifications, cultures should not keep up early and thus block the flow of sunlight. As well as the distance between the ridges, it is important to withstand 50 centimeters.

Shallow grooves for onions are usually made in the direction from west to east, so that between them there is a gap of twenty to twenty-five centimeters.So, the plant will be easier to care for. You can form recesses with a shovel. Between the bulbs themselves should be from eight to twelve centimeters. This length is determined based on the size of the seed.

If the soil is dry, it is important to water the grooves before planting. A good idea would be to bring in wood ash and sand. Do not forget that if you put onion bulbs too thickly, then when they grow up and hatch their feathers, they will cast a shadow on each other, and therefore prevent to develop.

It is necessary to deepen sevka into the soil so that a “cap” of three centimeters of earth is formed above them. If it is already, then onions can go to the surface. As a result, the root system will not be able to consume the required amount of moisture, and the culture will die. If you plant sevka to great depth, then there will be no special harm, but the shape of the future turnip will change. Of course, the taste and size will remain the same, but the elongated onion is unlikely to appeal to those who grow it for sale, or particularly critical culinary.

In this way, the depth of the grooves themselves should vary from five to eight centimeters. In general, this indicator depends on whether mineral fertilizers are added or not. In-depth “to the shoulders” of the sevka are to be laid on the ground, squeezed, dusted and dredged from above.

Caring for onion sets is quite traditional and consists of steps such as watering, protection from insects, weeding from weeds, and timely fertilization. In order for a bow to grow without any problems, it should be watered moderately twice a week, and then loosened the soil between the rows. In the first two weeks, watering can be carried out more often - two or three times for seven days. Of course, the exact amount is determined by the condition of the soil. Loosening will simplify the access of oxygen to the roots. It should be held six times during the vegetative season, without going into the ground for more than five centimeters.

When the turnip begins to form, the amount of watering decreases. Finally, about a month before the harvest, irrigation will have to be stopped. Of course, in case of sudden drought, it is recommended to make an exception and to sprinkle. Young shoots may die due to weeds, so this problem also needs to be addressed in a timely manner.

With regards to dressings, it is possible to choose: to carry out either one dressing per season, or several dressings per season, or not to apply fertilizer at all if the soil is nutritious and has been seasoned with organic substances in advance. In case of poverty of the soil, first natural fertilizers are applied, for example, bird droppings and mullein. This happens a month after landing on open ground. The time of the second feeding comes when the turnip is formed. At this point, it is important to feed the onions with potassium and phosphorus. It is important to do this when the soil is pre-moistened.

There is also a different feeding scheme. Two weeks after planting the bulbs receive fertilizers containing nitrogen. This substance will allow to cope with existing yellowness and will promote growth. To do this, 30 grams of potassium chloride, 50 grams of superphosphate and 40 grams of ammonium nitrate are diluted in a bucket of distilled water. On one square meter of a bed about one and a half liters of solution will leave.

After two or three weeks should pass the following feeding, which is suitable for organic. The easiest way is to use compost or mullein. Finally, after another thirty days, when the harvest is already approaching, the final part of the fertilizer is introduced, necessarily including phosphorus and potassium. For example, 300 grams of ash dissolved in a bucket of hot water and infused over two days. After that, each square meter of beds is watered with two liters of fertilizer.

Regular loosening is important in order to destroy the crust, which impedes the flow of oxygen to the root system, and hence the growth of the plant itself. Until shoots appear, it is necessary to loosen the land between the rows, and then the ridges themselves. When the turnips begin to grow, it will be necessary to gently move the soil away from them. This procedure will allow provoking an even greater growth of the fruit.

It is necessary to collect onions when new feathers cease to appear, and the existing green mass will begin to wilt and even fall down. In this case, the neck becomes thinner and softer, and the fruit appears a unique color, characteristic of a particular variety. The plant is pulled out entirely from the earth.

It is better not to postpone the collection for a long time, since the effects of low temperatures in the night and morning will negatively affect further storage. The finished crop should be kept for one day in a bright, all-day spot, and then it can be sent for long-term storage. Dried leaves are cut to a length of five or ten centimeters. It should be mentioned that sevok is not afraid of spring frosts, but the temperature from minus two to minus four degrees still can harm plantings.

Of course, it is impossible to ignore such an important topic as the protection of a plant from diseases and insect attacks. To cope with both tasks, you can spray the bulbs with a universal remedy. To prepare it, you will need to mix a teaspoon of copper sulphate or copper oxychloride with 35 milliliters of liquid or grated solid soap. The resulting substance is diluted in 10 liters of distilled water. To process the resulting solution will need to be once every two weeks.

The rules of preprocessing onion sets help to prepare the material with high quality in order to obtain an extensive harvest. If the onions were kept at a warm indoor temperature with humidity from 60 to 70%, then no additional action is required. Seven days before disembarking, the fruits are sifted, substandard specimens are discarded, and the rest are divided by size. The smallest should have a diameter not exceeding one and a half centimeters. They need to land the very first.

An onion with a diameter ranging in size from one and a half to two centimeters is considered the most suitable for planting. The only thing that the soil should warm up enough. Finally, a large seam, whose diameter is more than three centimeters, is more suitable for growing feathers or turnips for canning. It is important to be prepared that such fruits often give arrows.

After this, calibration is performed, and the seamer is sent for heating. It is important that for eight hours the bulbs are at a temperature of plus forty degrees, which will help get rid of infections. To do this, it is advisable to place the seals in a carton box, and then put it on the battery. Immediately before planting, the material is soaked in either a low concentration fertilizer solution or in hot water for a period of twenty-four hours (at least twelve hours). For another fifteen minutes, the onion should be spent in a solution of pink manganese or fungicide. Then the fruit must be washed.

If it is found at the dacha that the onion sets do not rise or do it very badly, then perhaps either the temperature is too low or there is little moisture in the soil, since the frosts have long ended and the snow has also melted long ago. In the first case, the beds should begin to cover for the night with a special material that will help the bulbs to get bogged down faster. In the second case, the solution will be abundant irrigation.

It is important that the water does not turn out to be too cold.If the feathers grow short, and their number leaves us to expect better, then the bulbs lack nitrogen; slowly forming pale leaves speak of a lack of nitrogen. If the feathers are gray, and the edge of the flat has become a bit ragged, then we can conclude that there is a shortage of potassium. Finally, dried bulbs often signal a lack of phosphorus.

It should also clarify the issue with the arrows that strain most gardeners. In general, the arrows are quite dense and rigid stems, on which the ovaries of the flowers are located. If there are not many of them, then they do not bring much harm, but if the number of these parts of the plant increases, then it worsens the condition of the fruits, since all the nutrients go to them.

The turnip itself is miniature, weak and, more often than not, until the next spring. To prevent the emergence of stems can, if you carry out the processing of sevkov themselves. As a rule, large material falls for one minute into the water brought to fifty degrees of heat. Then the sevok is wrapped in a warm damp cloth for twenty-four hours, after which it remains in water of room temperature for two days.

One of the main mistakes gardeners made when planting onion sets, is the use of the same beds. As mentioned above, the crop rotation must be strictly observed. If you break it, then onions will develop a variety of diseases, it will begin to be actively attacked by insects, and the soil will become poorer.

It is also important to remember that the break after carrots and garlic should be as long as the onion itself — that is, from three to five years. Experts also recommend not to cut the green feathers, as this procedure may affect the size of the fetus itself.

How to prepare and plant the onion sets, see the next video.