Gooseberry pests and control measures

Gooseberry is a shrub growing well in the most adverse conditions. Russian mistresses love its berries for versatility.From fruits it turns out delicious compote, juicy jam, berries have an excellent taste in fresh form, and are also well stored in a frozen state. The gooseberry can add some kind of exotic flavor even to salty dishes, for example, to become an ingredient of sauerkraut, or be a salad dressing.

But all this is possible only in the case of a good harvest. It is a pity for every summer resident, who dreams to roll up a jar of gooseberry jam for the winter, to see dry bushes and berries eaten by insects. We will understand what to do, and how to cope with this or that pest and save the harvest.

It is considered one of the most well-known pests that prefer to eat gooseberries. An adult individual leaves the eggs on sprouts for the whole winter time. In spring, the larvae creep out, crawling out and feasting on the juice of young leaves. Over time, some females acquire wings and begin to lay more and more eggs that occupy the tops of the plants.

Under the influence of the pest, the growth of the bush is slowed down, the shape of the leaves changes, a dense foliate lump forms on the tops of the branches. These lumps are the site of the main cluster of aphids. Insect-affected specimens do not develop well, buds bloom later than on healthy bushes.

In the circles of gardeners, there are several recipes for the preparation of mixtures that are capable of fighting off a sprout aphid. First of all, after winter the culture is recommended to be plentifully poured with hot water, and during the formation of the larvae the plant should be sprayed with “Fufanon”, “Iskra” or other means.

Further, the harvest is required only by folk methods, they are safe for the plant. The most popular are several recipes.

• Grind 7-8 heads of garlic, pour a bucket of water and stir. Strain the resulting solution.
• For 4-5 days, insist 200 g of onion peel in 10 l of water and filter.
• Potted vegetable tops in the amount of 1-1.5 kg soak in a bucket of water and insist for 3-4 hours. Pass through the filter.
• For a couple of days, insist 4 kg of finely torn burdock leaves in 10 liters of water, strain well.

For two days the larvae of this pest devour the leaves on the shrub, not touching only the cuttings and veins. Fruits of a plant, losing leaves, remain without good nutrition. The result is a bad harvest, sometimes not at all edible.

For winter, the larvae are wrapped in cocoons, located in the ground under the same bushes. With the arrival of spring, female individuals hatch and lay up to 150 eggs, usually females do it on the lower part of the leaves. A week later, the newly hatching larvae begin to attack the young leaves.

The safest method to protect against sawflies is to comply with preventive measures:

• every autumn to dig up the soil on which the bushes grow;
• found caterpillars that have already settled for the winter in the ground, must be destroyed;
• the larvae are easily shaken off mechanically, but it is necessary to spread the film in order to wrap up all the pests and burn them;
• you must carefully remove all insect-infested berries from the ground, otherwise the individuals that are inside will be located under the bush for the winter.

Yellow sawfly is a fairly well-known opponent of the crop in the field of agronomy, and therefore a number of popular methods of struggle have also been developed against it.

• Most of all these insects are afraid of spraying with tinctures of bitter wormwood, dry mustard, and wood ash.
• Another effective method - infusion of tomato tops. Recipe: Boil 4 kg of tops of tomatoes in 10 liters of water for 30 minutes, strain the mixture. Next, mix 2-3 l of the solution with 10 l of water, add 50 g of soap and process the mixture with the bushes.

This insect is characterized by a dense body covered with small villi. Its size rarely exceeds 2 cm.The peak of its "harmfulness" this individual reaches in the spring. One female can lay up to 150 eggs. Caterpillars that hatch, gnaw leaves, resulting in their torsion and deformation. If timely action is not taken against this pest, the final yield may be reduced by 80%. Consider the methods of struggle.

• Before the flowering period, regular treatment of insect bushes with bushes is necessary. Spraying is required at a temperature of at least +10 degrees.
• Such compositions as “Aktellik”, “Fufanon”, “Kemifos” recommended themselves best of all. They can be used in the period of swelling of the kidneys. Repeated procedure is carried out 2-3 weeks after completion of flowering.

In the war with the moth gardeners invented many recipes.

• In a bucket of water, soak 500 g of tobacco powder for two days. Strain and boil the resulting solution for two hours on low heat. Dilute the mixture in water in proportions 1: 1, adding 60 g of liquid soap to each ten liters. This tool is poisonous, and therefore the gardener must take care of the safety measures before spraying, that is, use gloves.
• Five kg of tomato tops to settle for three hours in 10 liters of water, place the container with the mixture on a slow fire and leave to boil for about 40 minutes, and then strain through the filter. Next, the solution must be stirred in water in equal parts with the addition of 50 g of soap.
• Chopped potato tops (5 kg) insist in a bucket of water for 4-5 hours, filter and stir 50 g of soap.

The larvae of this pest grow to 4 cm and spend the winter under the bushes, turning into cocoons. Waking up in early March, insects begin to destroy young leaves and buds. An adult is a motley butterfly, capable of laying up to 300 eggs. Within 10–20 days, the caterpillars hatch from the eggs, which feed on the leaves and gnaw hard on them. They are not always visible, as they often hide on the inside of the leaves.

Imagine the most well-known methods of prevention and control of the fall.

• It is required to pick leaf leaves on a permanent basis and burn them.
• In winter, it is recommended to thoroughly gnaw the ground under the shoots to rid it of hibernating insects.
• Tansy, wormwood, chamomile, tobacco extracts do well with this pest.
• An effective remedy is considered the solution of "karbofos". Culture is recommended to spray in the first decade of March, repeated processing should be carried out in the summer.
• Gardeners received positive feedback from Kinmiks, but it should be used when the buds open.
• Before flowering, most agronomists use drugs such as Iskra, Aktellik, Inta-Vir or Kemifos.
• And also in the war with the padyanitsa, the Fitoverm and Lepidotsid biologics effectively showed themselves.

According to the description, the moth is a night butterfly, the larvae of which destroy the foliage of shrubs. Caterpillars usually have a length of about 1 cm, young individuals are characterized by a yellowish-white color and a black head, more adult cousins ​​are green.

In the spring, it is necessary to begin to fight these insects, as they burrow under the bushes to a depth of 3 cm and safely overwinter, having formed into a cocoon. In spring, butterflies hatch from pupae, which in a month leave eggs inside inflorescences, on ovaries and leaves. Having bowed, the larvae begin to destroy the pulp of the fruit and the seeds, forming spider clumps from the leaves. Berries can be eaten almost completely, and those that are affected by the moth, are no longer suitable.

Preventive measures do not differ from the previous ones - it is the cleaning and elimination of affected fruit and digging the soil in the fall. The following drugs have proven themselves best in the fight against the night opponent:

• "Fufanon";
• Kemiphos;
• Actellic;
• Kinmiks;
• "Spark";
• "Inta-Vir".

From folk remedies experienced gardeners propose to refer to several popular recipes.

• Three kilograms of wood ash stir in 12 liters of water, insist for a couple of days and strain.
• One hundred grams of dry mustard dissolved in a bucket of water and incubated for two days, filtered and dissolved in water in a 1: 2 ratio.
• Once a week, bushes can be treated with compositions from tomato tops - the recipes have been given above.
• 250 g coniferous branches to connect with 2 liters of warm water in a ratio of 1: 10 - the composition for spraying is ready.
• 12% solution of dust is considered to be a good remedy for ogniye. They should cultivate the land under the bushes and close by, and after a week, scatter 50 g of raw materials to achieve maximum results.

This is a black beetle, it shimmers in the light, it is 4-6 mm in length. It is easily recognizable by the yellow legs and yellow antennae. These insects eat most of the leaf, gnawing holes and leaving the veins. In this case, the beetle is an amateur not only of gooseberries, but also of many other garden plants. You can meet the pest both in summer and in spring. Insect eats leaves, thereby provoking their early wilting.

The main drugs that leaf beetles are afraid of are Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos.

This enemy of the harvest also has its own distinctive features. Its negative impact can be recognized by suddenly drying out shoots. If you cut a faded sprout, then in the middle you can see a black spot - this is a trace of the larva that went through the center of the shoot and ate its core. Typically, the caterpillars move from top to bottom, crawling through cracks where the butterfly lays its eggs. Here, in these cracks, they remain for the whole winter, forming a pupa in the spring, from which a butterfly will fly in early summer. Around the middle of July, the insect will lay eggs, choosing for this place near the kidneys, cracks and damage to the branches. Formed in a couple of weeks, the caterpillars will begin to eat shrubs again. This can last for two years, during which time the plant gradually dries and collapses.

This cunning insect can disguise itself as an ordinary wasp. The adult butterfly not only looks like a pollinator, but also knows how to behave like a wasp. Larvae can destroy up to 50% of shoots.

The most popular chemicals in the fight with the glass:

• Lepidocide;
• "Bitoxibacillin";
• "Fitoverm".

There are popular methods.

• Mix 200 g of tobacco dust, 300 g of wood ash, 1 tbsp. l dry mustard, 1 tbsp. l ground pepper. Break through the soil under the trees - usually this is done in late spring - early summer. Treat the soil with the mixture, putting 60 ml under each bush.
• You can insist dry mustard, and celandine will approach, make a decoction of tansy, and the resulting infusions sprinkle the crop during the hatching period of butterflies.

It is a sucking pest of a meager size - maximum 0.4 mm. It happens brown, yellow or green. Some individuals have brown spots. The female who went to hibernate turns bright red or orange. The larvae have three pairs of legs, but forming a nymph, they acquire a fourth pair of limbs.

Usually the sucking pest is located on the inner side of the leaf, forming a spiderweb on its “territory”. At first glance, this is his dwelling, and you can not notice, but if you pour water on the branch, the cobweb becomes visible. The leaves of "marble" color indicate that the bush is seriously affected by the pest. It becomes brittle, dry, badly withstands cold, which adversely affects the yield.

To avoid the growth of the colony, it is necessary to take preventive measures in a timely manner:

• collect fallen sheets and burn them;
• carry out regular weeding;
• drench shrubs thoroughly with cold water in dry weather;
• in the evenings, it is recommended to warm the potassium permanganate solution to +65 degrees and pour it under the bushes;
• Prepare a solution for prophylaxis spraying: combine onion peel and water in the ratio 1: 2, insist for two days, dilute with water twice and process the gooseberry once a week.

Most popular acaricides against this tick:

• Tedion;
• "Acartan";
• Cydial;
• Metaphos;
• "Vofatoks";
• "Zolon".

Recommendations gardeners in the fight against spider mite:

• It is necessary to spray the plants at a temperature not lower than +18 degrees, otherwise the influence of a chemical or folk remedy on the pest is reduced;
• process bushes with a solution of 10 g of colloidal sulfur and 1 l of water, but care must be taken that the mixture can cause leaf burn;
• acaricides can be added to formulations intended to combat leaf-eating insects and sprayed with bushes after flowering.

As you can see, currently developed many ways to control pests that can destroy the crop. This chemical and folk methods.

For gooseberry disease, see the next video.