Strawberry "Queen Elizabeth 2": description of the variety and subtleties of cultivation

The market for berries now provides a huge selection of different varieties of strawberries, strawberries, and even land farmers.How to choose the one you need? In this article we will talk a little about the description, characteristics, features of planting and caring for a truly royal berry - the variety "Elizabeth II", which is rapidly gaining popularity among our gardeners.

The repair strawberry "Elizabeth II" was bred in Russia in 2001. True, there are several versions of its origin. One of them says that this variety is the natural mutation of the strawberry “Queen Elizabeth”, the author of which is considered the breeder of the British botanist Ken Muir. According to another, it was deliberately brought out by conducting thorough research.

One way or another, the State Register "Elizabeth II" was entered in 2004. The patent bearer is Donskoy Nursery, Rostov-on-Don. Recommended variety for planting in all regions of Russia, as it was tested in the Urals and Siberia, not to mention the European part of our country.

Garden strawberries "Elizabeth II", as mentioned above, is remontantnoy. This means that it bears fruit from May-June to October. But not constantly, but in waves. The first wave, as you might guess, passes in the late spring - early summer. Then - in August, and the last harvest is removed in the middle of autumn.

The distinctive feature of this variety is the constancy of the size of the berries throughout the entire fruiting period. Strawberries spend winter with knotted buds, and this is precisely the reason for its early flowering.

Bushes are very strong, not very spreading, with abundant foliage, leaf span - up to 50-60 cm. Bushes can reach up to 40 cm in height. Saturated-green, medium-sized leaves glisten in the sun and stand out for their jagged edges.

Small flowers are mounted on numerous peduncles, rising from under the leaves. There is also a good learning.

Garden strawberries "Elizabeth II" is considered the record for the largest berries. Their average weight is about 25-40 g, and some units even 100-130 g. Large red berries have dense, juicy pulp of sweet-sour or honey-sweet (fully ripe fruit) taste, with a heady aroma. The appearance of the fruit is very seductive: they are smooth, radiant, and the seeds are deeply sunk in the pulp. On top of that, Elizabeth II can change the shape of its berries: in the first wave they look like a crown, and in August you will see the correct cone with a shortened neck.

This berry is great for long-distance transportation, freezing, cooking, it is readily grown for sale and for its own use. During the season you can get up to 2-3 kg of berries from the bush, and in greenhouses and under the film - up to 10 kg per square meter of planting.

Strawberries “Elizabeth II” can be planted on the plot from the beginning of spring to the end of summer; the bushes planted after the fall will not have time to settle down and successfully withstand the winter cold. According to many gardeners, the bushes, rooted in the spring, acclimatize easier and can already this year please the crop.

The next step is the selection of a landing site. This variety of strawberries feels great on open and slightly shaded areas near trees. Provide the "Queen of Strawberries" and a barrier from gusts of wind - she does not like the cold. For the winter, it is better to cover it, otherwise in the spring you will not see a good fruiting, as it will freeze the peduncles.

The beds should be made high and raised to 30 cm above the ground and oriented to the west or south.

For remontant strawberries, a more nutrient-rich soil is required, so the soil must be fertilized with organic or mineral fertilizers before planting the seedlings. The earth should be loose, moderately saturated with moisture.

The bushes at Elizabeth II are sprawling, therefore the minimum distance between seedlings should be at least 15 cm, and the width between the rows - 60-80 cm.

Several optimal seedling patterns are used.

• Single line landing. The bed contains one row, the bushes are planted with an interval of 15-20 cm, row spacing - 60-80 cm.
• Two-line landing provides for 2 rows of bushes in the garden. The interrow distance should be about 40 cm, and the beds should be 70 centimeters apart.
• Third scheme repeats the second one, except for the fact that the aisle is covered first with black polyethylene, and on top also with dry grass. This method is focused on better retention of moisture and preventing the growth of weeds.

The procedure for planting strawberry seedlings:

1. dig holes, water them, lift them up in the middle in the form of a small hill;
2. gently straighten the roots, attaching a seedling in the hole;
3. sprinkle the roots with earth and pour water again;
4. then it is desirable to carry out mulching.

Saplings should have at least 5-6 leaflets, otherwise the probability of death of the germ is high.

If you wish, you can grow this variety even at home in large pots or boxes with a satisfactory volume of soil and nutrient saturation, of course, taking care of your green favorites. In greenhouses, they often do longline plantings in special containers.

The cycle of active growth and fruiting is two, a maximum of four years, besides, the berries become smaller with age, so strawberries must be constantly propagated. Fortunately, this is not a big deal. For "Elizabeth II" all well-known methods of reproduction are perfect:

• seeds;
• mustache growing bushes;
• the division of an adult plant;
• purchased seedlings.

Breeding by seeds is the most laborious method. It has many shortcomings, the most important of which are:

• low germination (50-60%);
• high likelihood of "black leg";
• the need for additional lighting;
• opportunity not to inherit the necessary qualities of the variety.

Seeds are sown in a moistened soil not less than 12–15 cm high (for good development of the root system) and covered with a transparent material (preferably glass), regularly poured over with a watering can or spray bottle.

You need to air planting 10-15 minutes a day, as the soil must breathe. The first shoots should be expected in 13-20 days. As soon as the second leaf has sprouted, the seedlings are planted in separate containers. By planting in open ground seedlings will be ready in 4 months after germination. Two weeks before that, begin to adapt the seedlings to the conditions of the street - take out to the courtyard for a couple of hours with a gradual reduction in the time spent under protection.

The most popular way of breeding strawberries is breeding tendrils with tendrils. To do this, pick up plants and constantly cut off flower stalks - for the growth of whiskers. The first sockets formed on the antennae are the best. They are buried on the parent bed. After the formation of branched roots, the rosettes are cut off from the uterus and put on a fresh place.

For reproduction by division, adult bushes aged 2-3 years are picked, healthy and bringing a good harvest. They are excavated and separated in such a way that each part has strong roots. Then they are seated on freshly prepared beds.

When buying ready-made seedlings, as noted above, carefully consider seedlings, purchase only healthy plants from trusted growers or in specialized outlets. Buying seedlings from your hands, you run the risk of running into a fake. "Elizabeth II" - too popular variety, so that fraudsters do not use it.

The main features that distinguish quality seedlings:

1. rich green foliage color;
2. rhizome length reaches 7 cm;
3. leg thickness not less than 0.7 cm - the development of a bush directly depends on this indicator;
4. root system should be well branched.

Poor seedlings have:

• twisted leaves - a sign of defeat strawberry mite;
• pale foliage indicates the presence of phytophrosis necrosis, such a plant is doomed;
• small specks are characteristic of bushes infected with spots.

When growing remontant strawberries, it is important to provide it with moisture and nutrients sufficient for three fruiting per year. The best option for water supply is drip irrigation system. If it is not possible to install such a hydraulic system, monitor the condition of the soil. Water it with a watering can with warm water about 2 times a week, or as soon as you notice that the ground has become dry. It is better to avoid droplets on the leaves and berries. Categorically it is not recommended to arrange watering from a hose with ice water - the pressure will wash away the earth from the roots.

After moistening, the soil is loosened carefully, so as not to spoil the rhizomes of strawberries. This procedure can be replaced by mulching - cover the top layer of soil with dry grass. This agricultural technique helps to maintain the necessary moisture, does not allow to grow weeds, and prevents contact of the berries with the soil.

Feed "Elizabeth II" must be regularly, about once every 15 days. If possible, replace the mineral "vitamins of the earth" with organic and vice versa. During the fruiting season, the “queen” of strawberries requires nitrogen and potash compounds, well perceived infused solutions of manure, fermented “compotes” of herbs.

Here is a recipe for making such a herbal compote.

1. Narvite juicy green grass - dandelions, nettles and others, place it in a lockable tank.
2. Add water so that it completely covers the grass. Cover the container and place it in heat.
3. Stir your mixture regularly. She must ferment, and she will begin to exude an indescribable "fragrance."
4. When this "compote" becomes homogeneous, it is ready, you can lure strawberries. When feeding, do not forget to dilute the "treat" with water - 5 parts of water - 1 part of the "delicious" slurry.

It is also recommended during the flowering treatment with a solution of boric acid - for this dilute 5 g of the drug in 10 liters of water. For a better education of the fruits, do not forget to trim the antennae, as their growth takes food from the flowers. Complex fertilizers and phosphorus compounds are introduced into the soil 30 days before planting seedlings, mixing them with humus.

Some summer residents, in order to get a bigger harvest in the summer, the first flower stalks break off. Then the garden strawberry lets through the first wave of fruiting, but the berries in July-August grow noticeably larger. In the summer, many summer residents protect their planting with a net from bird feathery lovers.

Variety "Elizabeth II" is quite resistant to cold, but the danger is snowless frosts. In this situation, the landings are covered with an air-permeable material, having previously placed arcs under it. Some gardeners advise to tear off all foliage from the bushes and sprinkle plantings with sawdust.

One of the main advantages of the “queen of garden strawberries” is considered to be increased resistance to pests and diseases, usually affecting strawberries. But do not forget about prophylactic agricultural practices:

• before the first flowering spray planting a solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate) or Bordeaux mixture;
• regularly inspect your beds for dried or diseased bushes, remove suspicious-looking leaves;
• monitor the condition of the mulch and soil, constantly change the rotten coating to fresh;
• Do not forget about prikormku - strong plants are better resist and diseases, and parasites.

If you plan to start growing strawberries (garden strawberries) "Elizabeth II", purchase seedlings in specialized nurseries to be sure that this is the variety that you wanted. And you will not regret it (if, of course, you will properly care for it). Large, sweet berries straight to the table or favorite jam for winter holidays - what could be better!

Well, if you are dissatisfied with dry and sweet strawberries - there are two main options for explaining this sad fact: first - you were deceived with seedlings, and second - you could not cope with caring for her. After all, she is very demanding in terms of nutrition and care.

Description of strawberry varieties "Queen Elizabeth 2", see the following video.