Cauliflower: types, planting and care
Recently, among enthusiastic summer residents, there has been a tendency to decorate the garden or create so-called “kitchen gardens”.Sometimes they even grow vegetables with flowers, combining them into interesting compositions. Cauliflower is one of the tasty, wholesome and ornamental plants, very suitable for such purposes.
Special features
This vegetable plant belongs to the cruciferous family (cabbage) and is a close relative of the more well-known cabbage. It is believed that the culture is introduced in Syria. In the XII century, cauliflower was brought to Spain. In other European countries, it began to grow in the XIV century. And in Russia, this interesting vegetable came under Catherine II only in the XVIII century. Now he is gaining more and more popularity, and this is understandable.
The heading that forms cauliflower is actually an inflorescence, the brush in which can be 2–15 cm long. Moreover, the crop is harvested while the buds of this “bouquet” have turned into flowers. Otherwise, the "head" will become rough and loose, respectively, tasteless and unsuitable for storage.
The first representatives of cauliflower coaches had small, bitter-tasting, greenish in color. Hundreds of years of breeding have led to the appearance of not only green specimens, but also white, yellow, lilac and dark purple. Several varieties growing nearby - already a beautiful composition.
In this regard, the cauliflower romanesco subtype deserves special attention. Its pyramid head consists of pyramids-inflorescences, spiraling from larger at the base to smaller to the top. Each pyramid looks like a miniature copy of a large head. And this almost geometrically correct creation has a pale pistachio color. Famous varieties of the species Romanesko domestic breeding: "Emerald Cup", "Pearl".
On time, harvested ripe cauliflower heads have a delicate flavor, a bit like milk. No wonder this vegetable crop is compared with cottage cheese.
Useful qualities
To maintain your health, in the diet you need to include the necessary trace elements and vitamins. Many of them are present in the composition of cauliflower:
- calcium and phosphorus - building material for bone tissue;
- potassium and magnesium have a beneficial effect on the nervous system and ensure the proper functioning of the heart;
- iron helps to maintain an optimal level of hemoglobin, blood enrichment with oxygen;
- without vitamins C, A, PP and group B, which is in this vegetable, normal functioning of the brain and immunity is impossible.
It should be noted that most types of cabbage, including cauliflower, contain valuable and rather rare vitamin U. It is an antioxidant, that is, it helps the body get rid of harmful compounds.
Cauliflower is about 2 times higher in protein content than white cabbage, and 3 times higher in vitamin C. Considering such a complex composition, it is safe to say that it is the most useful of its numerous family. Most often, it is cauliflower that becomes the first baby food. The beneficial effect on the digestive system, hypoallergenic make it an indispensable dietary product. And the caloric content of only 30 kcal per 100 grams (and in boiled and even less - about 29 kcal) allows us to recommend it for people with excess weight.
The range of cauliflower is quite rich, as they say, for every taste. Based on the descriptions of the characteristics, you can choose a variety that is suitable for your needs.
Sorta
Like most crops, there are species of this vegetable plant with different ripening terms. Early are considered varieties with a period from the first shoots to the appearance of heads of commercial ripeness - 80-110 days:
- "Movir 74" - a hybrid variety, early ripe. The plant forms a rosette of leaves with a diameter of 45-90 cm. The head is formed of a round or somewhat flattened white color, with a diameter of 12-23 cm (depending on growing and grooming conditions). It has a pleasant taste. Weight can be from 0.5 to 1.5 kg. The yield reaches 4.2 kg / m2.The variety is heat-tolerant and cold-resistant, but care should be taken to protect against pests and diseases.
- "Snowball" - early ripe variety. The rosette of leaves forms of medium size, which allows you to plant plants quite tightly. With such planting and a head mass of 650-850 g (maximum - 1.2 kg), it is possible to obtain 2-4 kg of healthy and tasty vegetables from 1 m2. It develops well and bears fruit in the open field, but when grown by seedlings. Rarely affected by diseases.
- "White Castle" - early high-yielding variety. Forms large rounded heads, reaching a mass of 1.5 kg. White color. Tastes are very good. When planted at the same time, the plants are characterized by friendly fruiting. The variety is resistant to cold and common diseases, possibly long-term storage (up to 70 days).
- "Express" - a variety that differs in one of the shortest growing season - only 55-60 days from transplanting. Recommended for closed ground. Ripe heads reach a weight of 350-500 g. The color is white with a yellowish tinge. From 1 m2 it is possible to get up to 1.5 kg of vegetables. The variety is resistant to diseases, but plants can suffer from pests. Most of the early varieties of coaches are formed not very large sizes. But on the other hand, because of the short development period, there is the possibility of obtaining several harvests per season. For the same reason, it is the early-ripe species that are best suited for growing in central Russia.
Mid-season varieties for full maturation will need from 110 to 130 days. For mid-latitudes, the following are recommended.
- "Summer Resident" treats grades with average terms of maturing, but the fructification period is stretched. For a household, when large quantities of vegetables are not required at once, this may constitute a certain convenience. The kochanchik is formed dense and rather large, 0.5-0.8 kg, white. "Summer Resident" can grow well both in closed and open ground.
- "Parisian" - mid-season variety. Forms neat round heads weighing up to 2 kilograms. Resistant to cold. You can grow until the fall.
- "White Beauty" - variety of medium ripening. It is considered high-yielding, since from 1 m2 it is possible to get up to 6 kg of tasty heads, each weighing up to 1.2 kg. It has good commodity qualities. It is only necessary to take care of protection from pests and diseases.
- "Patriotic" - middle-ripe variety. The growing season is about 120 days. Forms equal white heads of average size. Their weight can reach 0.8 kg. The grade differs in friendly fruiting.
- "Flora Blanca" - from the first shoots to full maturity of the heads of this variety 110-115 days pass. It belongs to the mid-season. "Flora Blanca" forms a dense yellowish head. Its average weight is about 1.2 kg. Productivity can reach 25 tons per hectare. Late varieties ripen over 130 days. Due to the long term of the growing season there is a risk of freezing the not quite ripe head.
Therefore, late-ripening species are recommended for the southern regions. In the middle lane, such varieties can be grown indoors. The main advantage of late vegetables - they are well stored.
- "Cortes F1" - one of the most productive late varieties. The mass of heads can reach 3 kg. But at the same time, plants are sensitive to soil fertility, fertilizing and care conditions.
- Amerigo F1 - late ripe grade. From planting seedlings to full maturity, 75-80 days pass. Since this hybrid is resistant to both heat and frost, it can be grown in open ground. The heads form very large, up to 2.5 kg of white color. They have a pleasant delicate flavor. But to get a good harvest you need to make mineral dressing.
If there is a desire to create a multi-colored garden bed, we can recommend the following varieties:
- orange - "Yarik", "Collage" - F1 hybrids;
- green - "Emerald", "Universal";
- purple "Purple", "Purple ball".
Vegetables of every color, except for decoration, have special beneficial properties. Orange and yellow varieties in carotene content are more than 20 times greater than their white relatives. Green kochanchiki have an original taste reminiscent of broccoli and contain a large amount of antioxidants. Violet - good support for the cardiovascular system due to anthocides in the composition of the heads of this color.
But it is necessary to take into account that during the selection of such varieties, more attention was paid specifically to fixing an interesting color. Therefore, "rainbow" plants are usually more demanding of growing conditions, have smaller heads and, as a rule, yield a smaller crop.
How to plant?
Grow cauliflower in two ways:
- directly by seeds;
- through seedlings.
The first method can be recommended for warmer southern regions. In this case, the prepared seeds are immediately laid in the soil to a permanent place without transplanting in the future. Usually sowing is carried out depending on weather conditions at the end of April or the beginning of May. Agrotechnology after the appearance of these leaves does not differ from the care of seedlings planted in the ground. For central Russia, the second method is more suitable.
Seeds should be purchased from trusted reliable producers in order not to be deceived in their expectations. Sowing on seedlings can be carried out in a greenhouse, then the plants can be transplanted to a permanent place, for example, in open ground.
But if it is possible to come to the country house only for a weekend and you have to leave the process unattended for several days, then a good result is hardly possible, since cauliflower is sensitive to temperature and humidity conditions, especially during the formation of the root system and the first leaves.
Therefore, often seedlings are grown at home, and it can be done on the balcony.
Sowing time is determined depending on the variety and ripening time. 45-50-day-old plants are planted in the ground in the first days of May (in the greenhouse it is possible before). A simple calculation shows that sowing can begin in early March.
Sowing is carried out in several terms with an interval of two weeks, starting with the early varieties, then mid-season, and the latter are sown late.
To plant the seed need to prepare. At first it is recommended to fill in the seeds for 15 minutes with warm water (about 15 degrees C). Then they should literally be held in cold water for a couple of minutes. After the seeds are soaked for 8 hours in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Some experienced growers recommend replacing potassium permanganate with growth promoters.
Cauliflower is demanding for growing conditions, including the quality of the soil. Therefore, the container for sowing and soil also need to be prepared carefully.
The first thing you need to know - cabbage will not develop well on acidic soils. Accordingly, the substrate consisting of sand, humus and peat in equal parts should be further deoxidized by adding ash or eggshell.
When using ordinary garden land there is a danger of infecting future seedlings with various diseases. To prevent this, the prepared soil can be shed with a solution of potassium permanganate. Another method of disinfection is roasting the substrate in the oven. For a good result, it is enough to maintain a temperature of about 60 degrees C. If you plant seeds in special peat pots, then additional precautions are not required.
When choosing containers it is necessary to take into account that the root system of cabbage seedlings is rather weak. Therefore, the stage of picking should be avoided by picking up immediately the capacity of a sufficient volume for the plant about 20 cm tall with 6-7 leaves (in this state, the seedlings are planted in the ground at a permanent place).
If for each seed you cannot immediately provide a separate pot, then you need to take drawers with a depth of at least 17-20 cm so that when picking the plant can be removed with a clod of earth.
An interesting option - use as a container eggshell. In this case, the seedlings planted in the ground will receive additional fertilizer. As you know, the shell is a source of calcium and a good deoxidizer. Prepare such a "container" should be as follows:
- The shell is removed the upper part, amounting to about a quarter of its size.
- Future "pots" should be disinfected to prevent mold and the development of bacteria.
- For drainage at the bottom of the shells, you need to drill several holes using a needle or an awl. This should be done gently in a circular motion. Do not forget that the shell is fragile and just can crack.
- The resulting "pots" with soil and seeds inside are installed in egg containers.
The disadvantage of this method is the small volume of the “container”. In this case, the seedlings will have to be planted earlier - with 3-4 leaves.
In order for the seeds to germinate quickly and seedlings appear, an air temperature of about 20 degrees C is necessary. You also need to keep the soil constantly wet, but it is important to maintain a balance and avoid excessive watering, as the seeds can simply rot in this case.
When optimal conditions are created, the first shoots appear by day 5-6. When all the seeds have risen (or most of them), the temperature should be lowered to 7-8 degrees C and ensure good lighting so that the seedlings do not stretch. After 6 days, they again create a warmer atmosphere, raising the temperature to 16-17 degrees, while leaving the night at around 8. Now it is even more important not to allow overmoistening. This will help loosen the earth, but this should be done carefully, so as not to damage the roots. Watering should be moderate, and it is better to replace it by spraying.
If the seedlings are grown in a common box, then pick picking is done on the tenth day after germination. This should be done as carefully as possible, transferring the plant to a separate container, if possible with a clod of earth.
Before transplanting seedlings into the ground, it is recommended to carry out at least 2 additional feedings: approximately 2.5 weeks after the emergence of sprouts (or one week after slinging) and 8 days before transplanting the plants to a permanent place. To do this, prepare a solution of potash fertilizer (10 g) and phosphate (20 g) in a bucket of water (10 l). It is also good to spray grown plants with a solution of boric acid.
When plants have 5-7 leaves, it is time to transfer them to a permanent place. It is better to do this, waiting for stable warm weather, preferably at a temperature of about 20 degrees C. This is especially true when planting is done in open ground, since it is easier to create the appropriate conditions in a greenhouse. At a lower temperature (about 15 degrees C) cabbage quickly gives arrows.
The land at the landing site is prepared in the same way as the ground was prepared for seedlings. That is, the soil should be deoxidized by adding ash or dolomite, and sanitized, for example, with the Fitosporin M solution.
It is important to choose the site. Suitable:
- soil loamy or sandy;
- neutral acidity;
- sunny well lit place.
For the landing they make quite deep holes at a distance of about 40 cm (40x40 scheme). Depending on the variety and the resulting rosettes of leaves and heads, the distance can be even greater (up to 80 cm) so that the plants do not shade each other and receive the required amount of nutrients. You can immediately add 150-200 grams of humus or half a liter of nitrogen fertilizer solution to each well (for example, nitrophoska at the rate of 20 g per 10 l of water). If the seedlings were grown in peat pots or eggshells, they are planted in the ground directly with the “container”.The shell should be crushed a little, so that the roots can grow into cracks. Soil a little bit tight around.
In order for the transplanted plants to take root faster, it is better to apply them with nonwoven material.
Cauliflower, like its other relatives, is very fond of water. But the measure in the watering is still necessary to comply. It is enough to do it once a week. More frequent watering may be needed only if the weather is hot and arid and growing occurs in open ground. Do not allow the soil to dry out. Water consumption for young plants is about 8 liters per 1 m2, for older adults - about 11 liters per 1 m2. Some time after watering, the ground should be gnawed and hilly landings should be carried out.
The culture is responsive to fertilization. Over the entire period of cultivation spend 3 dressing. The first - 10 days after landing in the ground, when the heads had not yet formed, the following - with an interval of about two weeks.
You can use the following compounds:
- organic: bird droppings (1:15), mullein (1:10);
- mineral: 20 g of potassium chloride and urea, 50 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of water.
Foliar fertilizing solutions with boron and molybdenum will also be useful.
Weed landing has to be at least 5 times per season. Weeds not only take nutrients from cultivated plants, they thicken the planting heavily. This creates favorable conditions for the emergence of diseases.
In order to spend less time and effort on weed control, weeded and loosened land between plants can be mulched with dry grass or peat. This technique also retains moisture in the soil.
Pest and disease control
A lot of anxiety is caused by harmful insects, which can seriously reduce the crop or completely destroy it. Cauliflowers are dangerous for aphid, cruciferous flea, cabbage fly, butterfly caterpillar. Dusting pests will help dusting the leaves with wood ash or tobacco dust. So that these substances do not crumble, you can pre-sprinkle the plants with a solution of household soap. This in itself will serve as additional protection. It is possible to use organic infusions of burdock, onion peel or tomato stalks.
The following chemicals are recommended: Aktara, Aktellik, Iskra M. Processing is best done before tying heads, as early as possible, at the first signs of the appearance of pests.
Cauliflower can be affected by several diseases:
- blackleg - manifested by softening and blackening of the base of the stem;
- kila - caused by fungus, affects the roots, they form growths that prevent the passage of food to the aerial parts of the plant;
- mosaic - characterized by the appearance of multi-colored spots on the leaves;
- mucous bacteriosis - affects the fruit part, slippery watery areas appear on the head;
- persporosis - signs: yellow spots on the leaves with a characteristic white bloom.
It is necessary to periodically inspect the landing. If you suspect that one of the first three diseases appeared, the affected plants should be removed, the land should be further disinfected.
If pernoporosis appeared, the beds can be treated with a 0.4% polycarbocin solution or a 1% bordeaux solution. When mucous bacteriosis, you can try to cut off the area affected by the disease. If the disease spreads further, the plant will have to be removed in order not to infect others.
Harvesting
Different varieties of cauliflower ripen at different times, and it is important to correctly determine when to collect the formed heads. Of course, it makes sense to focus on the recommendations that are always on the package with seeds. But in this case it is better to believe your eyes. If the head is dense and large enough (more than 8 cm in diameter, weighs more than 400 g), you should not leave it on the stem for a long time. Otherwise, the head will begin to grow coarse and decay, losing its taste.
The collection of ripe heads is recommended every 3 days, but if the weather is rainy, the interval between charges can be 5 days. With the first frost harvest usually ends. For better storage, heads should be cut off early in the morning or in the evening in cool weather, grabbing a few leaves with a cot.
Storage
In a dry cold room, cabbage heads can be stored, without losing their qualities, up to two months. Heads laid out in boxes and covered with cellophane. The heads are also well preserved if they are hung by the stalk.
It should be noted that late-headed cabbages are best suited for storage without processing. But you can save vegetables in other ways. Almost all varieties are suitable for canning. And frozen fruits can be stored for a very long time.
Tips
To prevent the invasion of harmful insects, calendula (marigold) or marigold can be planted between the rows. Their smell doesn’t like the white butterfly. Slugs, which are also not averse to eat delicate cabbage, do not like the smell of coffee. You can try to scare them away, scattering dried coffee grounds between the plants.
In order for the heads to remain dense and tender in the process of ripening, they need to be covered from the scorching sun, breaking down and bending the leaves. You can also close the cabbages with gauze or paper. But it should be noted that in many varieties of modern breeding the leaves grow in such a way that they themselves cover well enough and protect the head.
Leaves during cultivation should not be cut off, from them the food goes to the cabbage, when it ripens.
If the heads to the first frost did not have time to reach commodity maturity, there is a way not to lose the harvest. In this case, you need to dig the plant together with the roots and the earthy clod, move it to the basement room and dig it in a box with the ground. Air temperature should be maintained at 0-4 degrees C, humidity - about 90%.
When choosing a plot for planting, it is necessary to take into account crop rotation. Cauliflower grows well on lands after legumes, carrots, onions and garlic. And in areas where vegetables of the same family (cruciferous) grew, tomatoes, beets, cabbage are recommended to be planted no earlier than after three years.
Another little secret. When cutting the head, you can leave a stalk and a few leaves, then this plant can give a second crop, forming several sheet rosettes and small heads from the sides. And the leaves are also rich in vitamins and minerals and can be used for salads.
Well, if the summer cottage is not available, a certain amount of these valuable vegetables can be grown on your own balcony, if properly cared for, following the same agricultural practices. Reviews confirm this. Of course, this is possible subject to the availability of the necessary space.
The following video clearly shows the process of growing cauliflower from seed to harvest.