How to grow persimmon?

Persimmon - is one of the most useful fruits. This product not only has a beautiful orange tint that attracts attention, but also contains a lot of useful vitamins and minerals.Until recently it was thought that it was extremely difficult to grow persimmon in a harsh climate. However, new varieties bred by breeders are ready to refute this fact. It is worth considering all the subtleties and nuances of self-cultivation of such fruits.

It is worth noting that the word "persimmon" came to us from a long-standing Latin language, where it meant "divine food", "the fruit of the gods." China is considered to be the birthplace of an exotic plant, and it began to massively spread only in the 19th century. To date, there are up to 400 varieties of miraculous berries, and every year this number only increases. The tree itself has impressive growth - on average, its height reaches 8–10 meters, but some individual specimens are drawn out as much as 20 meters.

A distinctive feature of persimmon is a year-round change of leaves. In springtime you can see greenish leaves with yellow tints, in the summer they change their color to dark green. In the fall, obeying the generally accepted laws of nature, the leaves of persimmon become red, yellow and brownish.

The flowering period of the tree begins closer to the first days of April. Interestingly, the plant has two types of flowers - male and female, which differ in diameter. The color of the inflorescence can be divided into beige and pinkish. Persimmon fade away at the end of May, at the same time small green fruits are formed. External characteristics of the fruit can be very different, it all depends on the selected grade. On average, the weight of the fruit ranges from 50 to 400 g. The shape can be oval or round. The color of persimmon also has its own range - from light orange to brownish tones.

The most common types of persimmon are virgin, Caucasian and eastern. In addition, for convenience, all varieties are divided into three groups - pollination, aging and taste. Gardeners who are going to grow persimmon at home are primarily interested in the taste of the future crop, because to have such a fruit is not quite typical for a Russian summer resident, and tree care will be difficult. As for taste, experts note the sweet and tart instances.

Growing persimmon at home and on the site is a difficult and painstaking matter, because this plant comes from the tropics. Nevertheless, by making efforts, you can get a good result. As for the area in which the persimmon grows, it is quite diverse. Remarkably tree fruiting in central Russia, in the Kuban, in the Rostov region. A bit more difficult is the situation in Siberia, where constant frosts can destroy the harvest of wonderful fruits. In recent years, there has been a tendency for the growth of persimmon in Ukraine - some regions with a stable climate are well suited for an exotic “guest”. Incomparably lucky to those gardeners who live in the Crimea. Hot summers and warm, freezing winters do not create any obstacles for planting and care of culture.

There are two ways to grow a tree - in the open field and at home.

To grow a tree healthy, experienced gardeners recommend taking seed from the fruit itself. To do this, be sure to choose self-fruited varieties that do not need pollinators. It is worth paying attention to the external characteristics of the berry - it should be smooth, free of defects and signs of rotting. You should never choose frozen fruit - its seeds will not germinate. The best solution would be to buy unripe persimmon, and then leave it to sing at home.

After the pulp of ripe persimmon is used for food, it is necessary to place the seed in a weak solution of manganese.Those seeds that emerge should be removed immediately - they are completely unsuitable for planting. Further, the bones are kept for some time in growth stimulants. After they are wrapped in a damp cloth and stored for two months in the refrigerator. Such a simple technique allows you to quickly achieve a good growth of persimmon.

It is no secret that an exotic plant loves heat and humidity. You should not place a container with seeds near the battery - dry air quickly dries the ground, it is better to build a small greenhouse. A light, breathable soil with components such as humus, sand, bone meal, charcoal, and soddy soil is well suited as soil. At the bottom of the container must put drainage. On top of the container is closed with plastic wrap. As soon as the first seedlings seem, the film is immediately removed. The growth rate of seeds will please any gardener, so you should get ready that soon the sprouts will have to be planted in more spacious pots.

It must be remembered that the change of containers should occur in stages. You should choose a new container so that it is 4 cm more on average, otherwise the persimmon may stop developing. Plant should be planted upon reaching one year old. This is done with the help of a healthy stem from the self-fertile persimmon. You can purchase such cuttings in specialized stores or in botanical gardens. With proper grafting, the tree will begin to bear fruit in five years.

Planting and care in the open field are significantly different from home events. If you decide to grow persimmon in the garden, it is better to purchase seedlings for this in advance. The following tips should be adhered to by experts:

• you need to contact only verified producers - seedlings from unknown nurseries may turn out to be low-quality goods;
• it is worth carefully studying each seedling for visible defects and diseases;
• need to ask to show the conditions of growing trees;
• it is worth making sure that the roots of the sapling are covered with earth - bare specimens will not exactly take root in the new place;
• you should check the stem of the plant - it must be strong, not bend or break.

Even before landing, you need to finally decide on the choice of the site. Persimmon grows well in sunny, warm places, which are not blown cold winds and drafts. As well as the tree does not like “neighbors” too much, so it is worth picking up such an area where the plants will not contact with each other. As for groundwater, they should lie shallow - not less than 80 cm from the soil surface. However, it is not necessary to plant a plant in the valley, because the abundance of water also does not bring persimmon good.

The pit for planting is created in accordance with the size of the seedling. Care should be taken to ensure that the roots freely enter the pit, not entangling with each other. At the bottom of the hole must be drainage - it can be broken tiles, pebbles, bricks. From above, the drainage is covered with a thin layer of fertile soil, and only then a tree is planted. In no case do not press down the soil - this will create cramped and stressful conditions for the roots. After planting, the tree is tied to a pre-hammered peg - this is necessary for the first time, until the seedling is firmly established in the new place. Next, persimmon plentifully watered with warm water.

To care for persimmon is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. However, all activities should be carried out strictly in accordance with the schedule, the only way to get a good harvest. It is worth more to consider the mandatory procedures for care.

A persimmon is a small lover of constant watering. If you flood the tree with water, the root system will rot, and the seedling itself will die.Young trees should be watered once every two weeks, and adults will need only once a month. However, one should not forget that the arid climate will require more frequent watering - once a week for “babies” and once every two weeks for adult specimens.

Top dressing is an obligatory stage of persimmon care. The first 2-3 years to fertilize the tree is not necessary - it will pull the vitamins and minerals from the soil itself. After three years, you can begin to feed the culture. The first fertilizer is applied in spring, when the active growth period begins. Biological supplements and vitamin-mineral complexes for fruit trees have proven themselves well.

The second dressing is carried out when the tree has blossomed. At this time, the plant will need phosphorus and potassium - these components will contribute to the proper development of the culture. The third fertilizer is carried out in the autumn - a good idea would be to feed the tree with organic fertilizer in the form of manure or compost.

This procedure includes the timely removal of all non-viable branches - small, sick, too brittle, curves, dry, as well as those that interfere with the correct growth of the crown. It will be optimal to leave about five of the healthiest and strongest branches, which next year will give good shoots. A year later, these branches are cut again so that they are no longer than one and a half meters.

In order to properly prepare the tree for the winter, first of all six weeks before the frost stop watering. As soon as opal has enough foliage, the site is removed, since such a leaf cover can be an excellent environment for bacteria and viruses. The soil around the trunk is mulched, preferably a thick layer, because it is not known how cold the winter will be. The twigs of the seedlings can be pulled to the trunk, and a thick layer of sackcloth is put on top of the tree.

The tree needs a graft so that it can bear fruit. This is especially true for those who grow persimmon at home. Planting a plant is quite simple - to do this, take a cutting from a fruitful, healthy tree and make an incision on a seedling. The stalk is attached to the incision site, well tied up with a thin rope. After some time, the parts will grow together, the tree will be able to bear fruit.

It is worth noting that persimmon is a rather disease-resistant culture, but it is only when there are optimal conditions for its growth and with proper care. It is worth considering the most common diseases of this plant.

• Mealy dew expressed in the presence of white bloom on the leaves of the tree. The most common attack affects home cultures. To prevent development, the plant must be regularly ventilated. As a treatment, fungicides for fruit crops that are sprayed with leaves and persimmon stem are well suited.
• Root and gray rot - This is the result of improper planting. Due to the lack of illumination, the disease affects not only the roots, but also the leaves, flowers, and ovaries. Treat illness such drugs as "Impact" and "Topsin."
• Another dangerous fungal disease is scab. Black dots appear on the leaves, which quickly turn into large spots. Bordeaux liquid and copper sulfate will help in the fight. And also the tree will respond well to fungicides. Due to the black spot on the leaves of the culture, small purple dots begin to spread in abundance. If you do not take action, the disease will lead to necrosis of the leaves, and then the whole trunk. It is possible to treat misfortune with “Fitosporin-M”, “Fitolavin”, “Skor”.

Pests attack persimmon extremely rarely, but it is impossible to insure themselves completely against them. Persimmon often suffers from several pests.

• The most frequent parasite in the garden is a scythe resembling a small tick. Insect gnaws leaves, because of what they begin to dry and curl. You can fight with him with the help of "Akarin".

• Another pest is the Maybot larvae. Unfortunately, it is rather difficult to get them out - the best option would be to assemble by hand. To do this, use a thin twig or tweezers - capturing the parasite, it will be easy to remove from the foliage or trunk.

• A fruit fly is an insect that all gardeners know firsthand.. It does not cause any harm to the leaves, but it eats ripe fruit with great pleasure. Insecticides of local action will help to get rid of the fly.

The first crop of persimmon is harvested 4–5 years after planting. You should not worry if there are many over-ripe, unfit for food fruits under the tree. This is a temporary phenomenon that will become obsolete in a few years. The best time to harvest is the end of October. You should not shake the tree or pull the branches to the ground, it is better to use a ladder. If there is no time to harvest the entire crop, and the branches are bursting with an abundance of fruits, one should support them with thick stakes.

Crop is stored in wooden boxes at low temperature - no more than 1 degree of heat. Humidity should be about 70%, and the place - protected from direct sunlight. Experienced gardeners are advised to sprinkle the fruit from time to time with sawdust, as this increases their keeping quality. In general, the shelf life of persimmon is three months, then the fruits begin to rot. During this period it is recommended to use the harvest.

How to grow a persimmon from the stone, see the following video.